Dorchester, International Restaurant Guide

An “understated” but “comfortable” inn dating back to the fourteenth century, and where the “very experienced and charming owner” (Silvana Bandini, who honed her talents at the Bath offshoot of the Pig hotel empire) oversees the “cheerful staff”. “The decision to focus on small plates continues to prove spot-on” – a lengthy selection, outweighing heartier mains including burgers, steaks and pizzas – while there are a range of appealing spaces in which to eat them, such as “a more formal dining room; a conservatory, and a garden for when outdoor dining is possible”. For a more casual visit, “the bar is very popular” too.

2022 Review: “An offshoot of (well-known local staple) Yalbury Cottage, run and managed by the same team”, also in tandem with an artisanal French pastry chef – and located in the unusual setting of an auction house. “Lunches are interesting and well presented”, while “the evening sessions are more adventurous and the Mexican ones especially good”.