Dorset, International Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: This gorgeous old tavern on a corner site near the harbour – newly spiffed-up last autumn and with the recent addition of a conservatory – specialises in “excellent-quality” local seafood, served in a warm atmosphere that is “like being in France”.

“In a delightful old hotel in a lovely little Dorset town” – a 14th-century house full of charming original features – this “hidden gem” was snapped up by Silvana Bandini in 2018, after a stint working at the Bath outpost of foodie hotel chain, The Pig. The “reliably fine cooking” (of everything from pizzas to small plates) is overseen by ex-Mandarin Oriental/Bath Priory chef Chris Staines and wins nothing but praise for its “unusual combinations” (that are “exceptional value for money too”).

2022 Review: “An offshoot of (well-known local staple) Yalbury Cottage, run and managed by the same team”, also in tandem with an artisanal French pastry chef – and located in the unusual setting of an auction house. “Lunches are interesting and well presented”, while “the evening sessions are more adventurous and the Mexican ones especially good”.