Earl's Court, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Not so much a gastropub as a restaurant attached to a stylish pub/wine bar” – this upscale local, tucked away off Kensington High Street, has been gradually transformed over 25 years by two generations of the Staples family. The food (which according to the website ‘maintains the sensibility of a British gastropub, combined with techniques and flavours from the 21st century’) is “consistently reliable”, backed up by “excellent service and a very warm welcome”.

“Feeling like a neighbourhood restaurant but with the Michelin-standard cooking you would expect from Phil Howard (a partner in the management)”: this “charming venue” – “tucked down a side street away from Kensington’s main drag” – remains something of a “hidden star”. But even those who feel it continues to “excel quietly” can feel that the “low-key” setting, though “comfy”, “needs an injection of energy”. Top Tip – “the £34 fixed-price lunch is a steal”.

A “buzzy” atmosphere and “welcoming service” are the strong suits of this “expanding group”, with 16 branches in London and another handful nearby. While nobody disputes that they’re “lovely to sit in” and offer “value for money”, the “Middle-Eastern-inspired cooking” divides opinion, with some reporters “pleasantly surprised by the tasty food” and others bemoaning “underwhelming” dishes that “sound better than they taste”.

A short walk south from the Kensington entrance to Holland Park, this corner gastropub was converted a couple of years ago and makes an “atmospheric” choice. The menu is “short and not cheap for what you get”, with a focus on high-quality dishes like rib of beef to share or wild sea bass.