Esher, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: A couple of excellent reports suggest it’s worth considering this old pub reinvented as a hotel and restaurant (a couple of years ago), between the maze of Hampton Court Palace and Bushy Park. The refit is very attractive and the menu of superior gastropub fare is well-rated.

Abu Dhabi royal Sheikh Tahnoon bin Zayed al-Nahyan was – as of mid 2025 – rumoured to be on the verge of buying a £1 billion stake in Richard Caring’s restaurant empire, of which this famous brasserie chain is the crown jewel. Presumably, he’s more interested in ‘rolling out’ the brand in The Gulf and beyond rather than dropping by for a Salmon Fishcake and ‘Ivy Chocolate Bombe’, but if he’d asked the opinion of our annual diners’ poll, we’re not sure that he’d sign on the dotted line. “How can a restaurant with this heritage produce such uninspired, tick-box food?” is a question merited by its poor ratings, ditto what explains the “very slow and disinterested service”? The answer may be that “you don’t come here for the food, obviously” but for the “gorgeous” interior design and “picturesque” locations that continue to underpin their appeal. Let’s hope for the Sheikh’s sake that the middle classes of the Arab World are as undiscerning as those from the UK!

2022 Review: “Beautifully refurbished” by the current owners (Young’s Brewery), even if not everyone is a fan of its chain-ification, this “great local” – replete with roaring fires, seasonal grub and pleasant garden – is of note for its daily chalkboard specials, but they also do fancy game nights.

This “good local” beside Wimbledon Common, co-owned by TV chef Paul Merrett (also of the Victoria in East Sheen), does “a great Sunday lunch – and you can take the dog”. Competent staff ensure you get “excellent service even with a big group”; “the only disadvantage is its popularity, which can make for a noisy experience”.

“For a jolly night out with the girls”, these “warm and luxurious” west London haunts are just the job. An “extensive list of cocktails” is key to their allure – “the food is not the main attraction although it’s perfectly acceptable”. Lorraine Angliss (who also owns Annie’s and Little Bird) opened the Richmond original in 2009; its Chiswick sibling followed in 2022.

Proximity to Richmond Park – a large terrace for sunny days – and a comfortable, attractive interior help justify the ongoing inclusion of this eighteenth-century Fuller’s pub, near Sheen Gate. In other respects, its ratings remain resolutely ordinary.

“I don’t know why it hasn’t been picked up for a Michelin star”, say fans of Remi Williams & Aaron Webster’s Tooting hotspot, who feel it “should be shouted out more by restaurant guides” (to be fair, the Tyre Men do nowadays list it). Named for its use of smoking and salting, the interesting food is provided as an assortment of menus, with options ranging upwards from the two-course mid-week menu providing two courses for £30 per person up to the ‘Culture’ tasting menu for £70 per person. “For the price point, the quality and service is outstanding. If this place was in Central London, you wouldn’t be able to get a table”.

“Cosy”, large tavern just off Acton Green on the fringe of Chiswick, with some fine late-Victorian features, and whose menu has a somewhat “sophisticated” Mediterranean spin. There’s a small rear garden in summer that opens off its characterful rear dining room (though you can also eat in the bar).

“The perfect local is full of locals, and this defines The Andover perfectly: a buzzing bar and friendly staff greet you” at this “lively old boozer” in a quiet corner of Hammersmith’s ‘Brackenbury Village’. “Under new ownership for a couple of years now, the food has gone up another level” – somewhat more inventive and “a giant step up from pub grub” (but equally also a little “expensive for a pub”). Top Tip – “Sunday lunch is a must”.

2024 Review: “Great food and drink, especially pizza” makes it worth remembering this stylish (if sometimes noisy) Olympia pub-conversion, a few minutes’ walk from Brook Green (part of the Oak group).

“The food is great” at this early-Victorian King’s Road pub – “the perfect spot for a family get-together on a Sunday” – although “staff can be a bit patronising; this is Chelsea after all…”, and “it can get very busy”. The relaunch four years ago by JKS Restaurants and Kitchen Table chef James Knappett raised expectations so high that it remains a curious case of much ado about nothing: not bad at all, but given the pedigree we might have expected a little more.

This “lovely Chelsea pub” (built in 1853) near the Physic Garden has been beautifully restored, with a “yummy gastropub” menu priced to match its uber-chichi environs. Owner Jack Greenall of the famous Lancashire brewing dynasty now has a trio of historic west London taverns, with the Walmer Castle in Notting Hill and the Carpenter’s Arms in Hammersmith.

“An Irish pub called the Churchill Arms that has a Thai kitchen inside may sound strange… but it works!” – this big, 18th-century, corner-boozer near Notting Hill Gate catches the attention of passers-by with lavish external “floral displays that are a highlight of the area”; (originally the Bedford Arms, it was renamed after WWII on the basis that the great man’s grandparents used to frequent it). Behind the pub proper sits a large, upbeat dining annex, which for more than 30 years has pioneered the ‘Thai-in-a-pub’ format. “It’s not quite the bargain basement pit-stop it once was” – relatively “unambitious” now, but “full of flavour, never expensive… what’s not to like?”

For “boozy lunches and elbows-on-the-table guzzling”, Tom Conran‘s Irish-themed ‘Guinness-and-oysters’ pub on the fringe of Notting Hill is hard to beat; and a pint plus a pint of prawns or other seafood platter helps fuel the excellent craic. In addition to plentiful crustacea, there’s a solid choice of “good food done well”, with a separate menu in the cute and tiny upstairs dining room.

Heston Blumenthal’s association with the park-view dining room of this fancy hotel – with its dominating Edwardian facade looming over the top of Sloane Street and nice outlook onto Hyde Park at the rear – has endured since 2011. Here, the wizard culinary strategy (the cynical would stay ‘shtick’) is a weird-and-wonderful menu dredged from ancient cookbooks by the Fat Duck chef (e.g. Buttered Crab Loaf, 1714; Chicken Cooked with Lettuces, 1670; Sambocade, 1390). “It’s an experience, but rather self-limiting by the very nature of its historically-based menu and not somewhere one would necessarily regularly return to”. Our annual diners’ poll has always suggested that the two Michelin stars it holds is rather OTT. Yes, it does have fans who consider it “tremendous” and inspired no tirades of criticism this year. But too many reports question its scary prices, or come with a sting in the tail; and the service in particular is rated as highly “indifferent”. (“Of course the food was very nice, but at these prices it should be exceptional, and it wasn’t. It’s just really very very expensive and not quite as good as it could or should be for the money they’re charging”). Expense accounters like it: “the ambience is somewhat bland, but this matters not if the emphasis is on the deal!”

“Peerless pub food” has won renown for this acclaimed gastropub near Vauxhall, which can hold its head up high in comparison to its more famous sibling, the Anchor & Hope in Waterloo – but where it is marginally easier to get a table. “Relatively simple but very imaginative” British dishes are “expertly cooked, on a tasty and regularly changing menu”, and it’s “still a proper pub too”. (“If this place was on my doorstep, I’d be there all the time… it is and I am!”)