Esher, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Surprisingly decent Italian fare… proper (and huge) pizza and pasta and, if you have room, pleasing puddings” carves an ongoing niche for these smartly decorated outposts of an international Italian chain (started in 2004), where – as the name hints – many dishes feature Mozzarella di Bufala.

“Despite now being part of a rolled-out chain, they have managed to maintain good quality” at these tapas-haunts, whose original branch off Goodge Street was an early pioneer of the capital’s trend to small plates. A minor gripe is of “packed” seating, but most feedback focuses on their “delicious food and well-thought-out wine list”.

“For a quick bite” in touristy parts of town, all with a bit of affordable glam thrown in, these “closely packed” Italians with their wide range of Venetian-style Cicchetti have carved a sizeable following: fans say “the small-plates formula works well” and “the whole place buzzes”. Ratings came under more pressure this year, though, with service – generally “swift and charming” – sometimes found “rushed” or “rather random”.

“Keeping up its standards” – this “sweet” and stylish converted pub near the Royal Opera House operates over two floors. It’s part of the Salt Yard chain, and serves the Spanish and Italian tapas for which the group is known: “good food”, but some feel it’s “expensive” for what it is.

2022 Review: A short walk from Sloane Street, this elegantly panelled Belgravia dining room is part of a luxurious five-star hotel. Perhaps because it’s tucked away in such an expensive ’hood, it doesn’t generate a huge volume of survey feedback, but such as there is says it successfully sets a superior standard of Italian cuisine.

“They know their clientele” (most of whom are of a certain age), and “really look after them” at this “absolutely classic Italian” south of Sloane Square, founded 30 years ago by Paolo Caraffini. “The food feels like pure 1960s-style London/Italian and is very competently cooked”. “There’s always a great welcome (when they get to know you!), it’s not over-expensive and has a warm and bubbly atmosphere”.

“You never feel cramped or too close to other tables” in the gracious West End flagship branch of Carlo Distefano’s national group of old-school, comfortable Italian restaurants (London was one of the last destinations of a chain nowadays numbering about 20). Culinary results are “consistent” from the “very comprehensive menu” – if there was a gripe this year, it was over the odd let-down on the service front.

The Mayfair original of this small group is celebrating its tenth year, with a Belgravia sibling and café-style offshoots in similarly chichi Chelsea and Kensington. It channels a retro ‘dolce vita’ vibe, with an Italian menu that “delivers on the brief if nothing more”. The latest addition is an all-day café, which opened in December 2023 next door to the Dover Street flagship.

“Sally has triumphed in maintaining stands and a smile across the decades” and the “super-civilised institution” she opened in 1984, south of Notting Hill Gate, has shown rare staying power. That “there is always a really warm welcome” from the “effective and nurturing” staff goes down well, as does the way she has “maintained excellence with the finest seasonal produce perfectly cooked” (inspired by Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in California, her friend and mentor since the late 1970s). “Simple but elegant decor” and a strong wine list focused on North America complete a picture which still inspires practically zero criticism.

“Meals just flow from gorgeous dish to gorgeous dish” at this “comfortable” Sicillian restaurant in a Fitzrovia townhouse, which inspires nothing but praise this year. The menu is a good mix between “creative” and more familiar dishes (“excellent parmigiana and pasta for example”); and it’s all washed down with “beautiful wines”. The golden-hued Moorish-inspired decor verges on “lavish”, with tiled floors and “nice booths”, plus “outside tables that are worth it on a sunny day”.

“Staff could not be nicer” at this veteran Soho Italian, which originally opened in 1971 but has shifted site twice in its lifetime (most recently in 2021, from nearby Poland Street). “The new venue is in the old style and it’s as good as ever”. Fans value “having a reliable, independent Italian in this part of London” and its “delightful”, personal approach particularly underpins its appeal. It also helps that the cooking is “very authentic” and “reliable” too: “standard dishes from a sensibly short menu but nicely done”.

“It is not the cheapest option in town”, but this “always-busy”, “classic” Italian (founded in 1945) is very “well-situated” and “does deliver consistency”; hitting just the right note for a “Central Casting” crowd of St James’s regulars, many of them clad in the expensive pin-striped suits sold in the local gents’ outfitters. “The food is good without being exceptional”; “staff know their clientele and make them feel special” and although the question is raised – “do the tables have to be so close together?” – such “intimate” seating is perfect for the local property and art dealers to gossip over. “It’s pricey for sure… but that’s Jermyn St for you”.

2023 Review: Near Harrods, this Italian of 35 years’ standing is recently part of the San Carlo brand, but fits well into the glamorous, traditional mould of that Manchester-based group. “The food can be excellent, but is also erratic at times.”

“Still a really good location and format” – this Soho ‘tapas haven’ is increasingly forgotten about nowadays, but can still merit a visit. Its Italian/Spanish dishes “aren’t as good as they used to be” but are “solid, and better than many offerings in the area”; and there’s an interesting selection of drinks. Also, “it has a really relaxed style, but with all the vibe of neighbouring Carnaby Street”.

Changing the guard was always going to be a challenge at this Knightsbridge trattoria – an “institution” established in 1974 – where long-established staff sustained a madcap vibe for decades. Since it was taken over and refurbished in early 2023, some still applaud an “unchanging, noisy and crowded Italian”, but other old fans feel let down, saying: “what a disappointment! It’s deadly dull compared with when it was family-owned”; and with the odd incident of “pushy” service. New owners the Thesleff Group have other high-performing properties, so hopefully feedback will settle with time.

“For a quick bite” in touristy parts of town, all with a bit of affordable glam thrown in, these “closely packed” Italians with their wide range of Venetian-style Cicchetti have carved a sizeable following: fans say “the small-plates formula works well” and “the whole place buzzes”. Ratings came under more pressure this year, though, with service – generally “swift and charming” – sometimes found “rushed” or “rather random”.