Farnham Royal, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

There’s no doubting that Heston Blumenthal’s fifteenth-century tavern, a short walk from his Fat Duck flagship, is a “good gastropub”, and the majority of reporters are thrilled by its upscale pub food. But the celeb chef’s exalted reputation (reflected in the prices) means that expectations are sky-high – and though a majority of diners are well satisfied, visits “can be disappointing” (“our battered fish was hard and dry on the inside. Not acceptable at these prices!)”

Katherine (daughter of the late Terry Wogan) and Henry Cripps have long stewarded this top-class, good-value gastroboozer, in a “nice location” near the local golf club; the “seriously good food” makes it “much more than a pub” and “friendly staff” ensure a good welcome.