Farringdon, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“The OG” of ‘nose-to-tail’ British cuisine and recherché offal-related dishes – Trevor Gulliver and Fergus Henderson’s Smithfield icon is “as brilliant as ever” after all these years (it opened in 1994). Occasionally reports accuse it of “complacency”, but for the most part they pay awed homage to its “top cooking and fine ingredients” delivered by “superb, genuinely engaging and caring staff”. There’s an “excellent wine list” too. “The matching stark white dining room” of this converted smokehouse “still has that Scandi-chic feel, but is oh-so-loud – perhaps the worst acoustic of any restaurant ever!”. Top Menu Tip – “Worth it for the roast bone marrow alone”; suckling pig is a favourite for a group celebration; and “it’s one place you must never pass on pudding!” (“amazing Marmalade Bakewell, Rhubarb Trifle, Steamed Sponge… all excellent)”.

“The great meat cookery never disappoints at this a quirky venue” – a Clerkenwell institution opened in 1869 as a ‘Progressive Working Class Caterer’ and nowadays part of Will Lander & Daniel Morgenthau’s group. “Top quality cuts are cooked to a T” – “imaginative fare” that’s full of “meaty goodness”. The “uncomfortable pews” annoy some customers, but won’t be replaced because they’re Grade II listed – the private dining room upstairs is a good alternative if there are seven or more in your party. Top Menu Tip – the “confit potatoes always get ‘wow’ responses from first-timers”.

Now moved to Ludgate Hill from the Paternoster Square perch that originally provided its name, this D&D London restaurant is a “decent and safe option” – although a more upbeat description has it “doing what the City enjoys, with high levels of testosterone and impressive steaks”. “Swarming with suits” – it’s a natural for business entertaining.

2021 Review: “Our local – we’re so lucky!” Near the foodie mecca of Exmouth Market, this “busy” Clerkenwell corner-boozer receives a consistent thumbs-up in reports: “the standard of the food is high”.