Greater London, French Restaurant Guide

Inspired by Art Deco Paris, this wood-panelled Gallic brasserie south of Elephant & Castle provides a “wonderful atmosphere”, a menu of “food you want to eat” and “Meteor à la pression” – better still, there’s a jazz club upstairs. Les patrons, brothers Noland & Florent Regent, grew up next door in the Lobster Pot – another Francophile’s delight, run by their parents for 25 years until 2016.

“Convenient, if unexciting, medium-priced brasserie two minutes from the Royal Opera House” that’s worth knowing about in the touristy ‘minefield’ it inhabits. The Gallic staples are “fairly priced” (“in particular, the set menus are good value”) and “service is acceptable for such a busy, central establishment”. Top Tip – “great pre-theatre”.

“Consistently lovely for any occasion” – this unusually attractive venue occupies a graciously converted former Georgian auction house in Chancery Lane (dating from 1807), complete with period glass ceiling. It celebrates its 15th anniversary this year as part of Pascal Aussignac’s Club Gascon group, and offers “good value Provence-inspired cuisine and unusual wines from South West France and Corsica”. The basement cocktail bar, Baranis, boasts London’s only indoor pétanque court.

“The go-to place to celebrate a special anniversary” – this “enchanting” Covent Garden haunt is “magical for a special occasion or simply a treat”; and is yet again voted Londoner’s No. 1 choice for a hot date in our annual diners’ poll. If possible, try to book a table in the “beautiful flower-filled conservatory”, where there’s an opening ceiling in summer and a log-fire in winter: “upstairs, the cosy and intimate dining rooms have a whiff of that atmosphere (e.g. similar white flowers across the ceiling) but are perhaps for more mature relationships!”. While not its USP, its French cuisine is by no means incidental – “beautifully presented and bursting with flavour”; but it is upstaged by the wine list, which is “a rival to ‘War and Peace’ in length”. Service that’s “extremely helpful and very welcoming” caps off an impressive all-round performance. Top Tip – “the weekday set lunch is astonishingly good value for such cooking, particularly as it also offers a small carafe of well chosen wine for a pretty modest supplement”.

2021 Review: “Interesting and very edible food in ‘tapas mode’”, at “very reasonable prices”, is on offer at this contemporary Franco-Hispanic bistro in Borough Market. “Charming service” from “efficient and friendly staff” adds to its attractions – along with “plenty of outdoor tables” for summer scoffing.

“A wonderful old-school oasis below the hell that is Leicester Square” – this “fabulous throwback to a proper wine bar” is “remarkably unchanged” since Don Hewitson opened it in 1971 (and his successor Will Clayton sticks to the winning formula). “The famous ham-and-cheese pie is well worth its million-odd portions! and is the perfect accompaniment to a great wine list”.

“Amazing fine dining with Korean flavours running through each dish creates a real joy for the taste buds” at Woongchul Park & Bomee Ki’s passion project in a street in the shadow of The Shard. For foodies, it’s a must-visit, with a “restrained, unshowy and a pleasing menu” mixing classic French culinary techniques with inspirations from their home country; and all “at a reasonable price for this level of cooking and quality of ingredients”. Quality wines come from Keeling Andrew (associated with Noble Rot) although “more cheaper labels might encourage the topers amongst us to a bigger spend”. Service is “amazing”; and the neutral, 28-cover space is super-tasteful (but maybe not one for thrill seekers).

2023 Review: Rihanna celebrated her birthday in February 2022 at this lavish Creole haunt next to The Ivy, in Covent Garden, where the former site of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon nowadays combines a restaurant (ground floor), bar (first floor) and roof garden. Whether the tastes of New Orleans are faithfully replicated is a matter of some dispute – there is the odd take-down of “overpriced and under-seasoned dross”, but most reports actually say its gumbo, Louisiana crab cakes and other eclectic dishes are “very good”.

“Excellent for an informal French meal at very affordable prices” – this Gallic pair are the creation of Lyon-born Aurelia Noel-Delclos, who named them after her food-loving grandmother. With its “child-friendly menu” and “well-designed bistro-brasserie ambience”, the newer Victoria branch has overtaken the site in the touristic heart of old Covent Garden market in popularity. Don’t expect the earth – they serve “reasonable, bistro-type fare”.

Fabio Lauro and his family – the new owners since 2022 – still have work to do in reinjecting life into this “very French” and “old-fashioned bistro”, near Covent Garden, which started small after WWII and has grown into various neighbouring buildings over many years. Fans still applaud its “Gallic bistro staples served in a cosy romantic space” and claim it has “perked up on the last couple of visits” (having been in decline up to the prior owner’s retirement). But while reports of “disappointing” or “less-than-mediocre” meals are in a minority, they remain too commonplace and its ratings in our annual diners’ poll remain well off their past best – “such a pity, the place still has potential”.

“Perfect for a slick business lunch” – “if the weather permits get an outside table” at this D&D London operation on the top floor of No 1 Poultry, where you eat just a minute’s walk from the Bank of England amidst leafy roof terraces. Despite the upheavals at its owning group (sold to new private equity owners in October 2023) it put in a stronger-than-ever performance this year. True, “it’s best when the meal is not at your own expense”, but perennial complaints were absent this year. Instead, “nothing but praise for the lovely staff and excellent kitchen”; and for the “consistently good” modern French cuisine: “I’ve taken numerous guests – all very happy!”