HIghgate, Indian Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: A curry house like no other, with the all-vegan dishes named after Smiths' songs; superfan Max Paley founded it as a delivery service from a kitchen inside the Retro music venue (address listed; sit-in dining planned for post-lockdown). Dishes include Girlfriend In A Korma and How Saag Is Now?.

Even four decades on, this “bucket-list canteen” in the Northern Quarter is “still super value”, turning out “unimpeachable home-style curries” that “would grace anywhere” – and where, though “prices creep up, you can still get three curries and rice for about six quid for veggies”. “If you are ever in the area you need to try it” – just “get there early to avoid the social media types” (perhaps drawn by the fact it’s good “for occasional celeb spotting as actors and musicians often pop in”).

2021 Review: This “crazily busy” branch of Shabir Hussain’s Bradford-based group “still delivers great curry and their specialism of over-sized naan”. It’s one of the few places that lists camel (‘on the bone’) on its menu.

With its “lovely setting” (in a grand, Grade II listed former Freemasons’ Hall), “perfectly balanced service”, and “wide-ranging, out-of-the-ordinary menu” of “impressive and unusual food”, this branch of the retro Bombay-inspired Indian group is firing an all cylinders, with all the usual favourites – “okra fries”, “the famous black daal”, “chicken ruby that I dream about” – plus the local speciality, “superb Nihari biryani”. Top Delivery Tip – “the dishes are so beautifully presented, you could buy a delivery for someone as a great birthday treat – and they arrive very fast!”.