Hartshead, Indian Restaurant Guide

“Whether it’s a quiet meal for two or a large family celebration, it’s always a treat” to eat at this Bradford institution, which has grown over 45 years from a tiny Kashmiri shop into a vast restaurant accommodating 500 guests. Founder Mumtaz Khan based his original menu on his mother’s recipes, and has entertained guests including the late Queen. He now has a branch in Leeds, a national brand of ready meals and a halal baby food brand with global sales.

This “buzzy, busy” subcontinental started out here as a tiny 28-seater, but its waistline has expanded over the years in sync with what is now a ten-strong national chain (the most recent offshoot of which, opened in early 2024, is the flagship of Blackburn’s £50m Cultural Quarter). The “seriously yummy food” (“always cheers us up!”) features epic naans, baltis and a special section of old-school classics; if you can’t get enough of it, try the ‘Chef’s Challenges’: the quantitative ‘For the Big Man’ and qualitative ‘For the Brave’ (you face a plate ‘hotter than a dragon’s breath’). Breaking news… RIP the founder of the chain, Shabir Hussain, who passed away aged 56 in October 2024.

2023 Review: Mohammed Sabir was still working as a bus driver in Shipley when he launched his Kashmiri curry business as a mobile takeaway from his Commer van, the ‘Spice Box’ in 1976. The next year he opened his first bricks-and-mortar restaurant Aagrah, which still wins consistently solid marks for its food and has nine branches across Yorkshire.

“Still innovating despite being an old hand in this space” – this ‘OG’ of the successful, small northern group combining “great, cheap Indian veggie street food” with craft beer in a lively setting has spawned siblings in Liverpool and Leeds (although its Birmingham branch did not endure and closed in July 2024). “Tremendous even for meat eaters so long as you have an open mind!”

Just like its much-loved Epsom elder sibling (est. 2016), this spin-off from chefs Nand Kishor & Sanjay Gour has quickly raced to the top of the Trip Advisor ranks, with an offering that includes a five-course tasting menu, alongside weekend thali brunches. It hasn’t yet elicited the same reams of feedback as the original in our annual diners’ poll however, but reports are encouraging, if well below the full-on raves of its cousin ‘darn sarf’.