Harwich, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“Another from the Milsoms’ stable” (whose flagship is The Talbooth at Dedham), this delightful small hotel dating from 1860 has a dining room that is “fish-focused to reflect the setting”, on the historic Harwich waterfront.

Californian Sherri Singleton’s “marvelous neighbourhood restaurant” occupies a 1723 coaching inn, with great views of the River Stour, and bedrooms set above the pub or on top of kitchen shop and cookery school. The “consistent” and “sophisticated seafood menu” (but not just) ensures that it’s “always popular”, and there was praise this year for the “good-value set menu” (two courses £24.95 or three courses £27.95 per person).

The Pinney family’s fishy institution “hasn’t changed for 40 years, apart from the odd tweak to the menu – and why not, when it’s as perfect as this?” A “simple setting” doesn’t detract from its charms – including the fact that “it was doing local before it became a trendy buzzword, with fish (both fresh and smoked) and oysters from down the road”; “after you’ve eaten, you can wander through this impossibly picturesque village to their shop to take more home”.