Haslemere, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “Fabulous country food” (hefty and satisfying) is the order of the day at chef-patron Simon Goodman’s hillside sixteenth century boozer, which these days profits from a proper dining area and, as ever, an “amazing garden” overlooking Leith Hill, the highest point in Surrey.

This restored village pub offers “some great food in an area that needs more restaurants – their stuffed bao bun was worth the trip on its own”. Its co-owner, model Jodie Kidd, posed nude for a new pub sign to protest that pub closures are ‘stripping’ Britain’s heritage; it was removed on council orders in 2023.

2021 Review: “So quirky and friendly”, “and the food is great too” at this smart pub-with-rooms geared up for huntin’, shootin’ and fishin’ in the Hampshire countryside. Top Tip: “Go for the scrumptious dessert of beer cake and apple ice cream”.

A “glamorous” outpost of Richard Caring’s ever-growing brasserie empire set across two floors, and with a particularly scenic patio overlooking the headline attraction announced in its name. As per its siblings, the menu hops from British classics to Asian-inspired dishes and veggie options, and there’s currently a two-course ‘£19.17 Menu’ revisiting classics from the original London restaurant, from their famed shepherd’s pie to frozen berries with white chocolate sauce; also as with its siblings, not everyone is convinced by the food (“nothing to rave about”) but it remains one of the more commented-upon venues in these parts.

2022 Review: Current owners The Epicurean Collection – behind a string of boutique pubs and inns – have a hit on their hands with this award-winning venture: a “worthy addition to an area generously supplied with high-quality country pubs”. The rolling South Downs beyond the windows inform much of the “imaginative menu”, with a particular accent on introducing non-shooting folk to game (the latter courtesy of the local Goodwood Estate).

2021 Review: “Good Italian food in the Surrey Hills” is to be found in this substantial village pub, now operated by an Italian team that ran restaurants in Guildford for three decades. The bar menu of pizzas and pasta is complemented by a more formal menu in the restaurant.

“Set in a charming cottage” in an “attractive Surrey Hills village setting”, this red-brick restaurant is “a class act from the off”, beginning with the “warm welcome” from Jack Forrest Foster, who purchased the restaurant alongside chef Mohssine El Faddi in 2019 (the venue having been in existence for over three decades). “The modern British food has a North African influence which adds to the interest and taste” and invariably “draws you back”.

“When you walk through the portcullis into the castle it’s like entering another world” at this luxury hotel, which sits in “well-manicured grounds” and looks straight out of a Disney movie. The dining room itself is “situated upstairs” in a modestly sized barrel-vaulted space. Not everyone is wowed by the straightforward modern British cuisine but even doubters say the surroundings “make up for it”.

“A favourite Pig in the litter to date, thanks to the splendid view across the lawn, the vineyard and across the South Downs” from “a conservatory dining room laid out with an eclectic mix of tables and chairs, likewise the crockery (must be a nightmare stacking the cupboards!)”. “Like all the Pigs, it has a good buzz” and “friendly and helpful staff” are also noted in feedback. “The food’s not complicated, allowing local sourced produce to shine”.

2022 Review: “The food is excellent, and you’re made to feel welcome” at this showcase for the produce of the Goodwood Estate, an early convert to organic farming (although Lord March, the Duke of Richmond, is better known as a petrol-head). “They’ve turned the courtyard into a lovely space”, and the highlight of the menu is the ‘butcher’s board’ sharing selection of various meat cuts.

“A very well-run and vast pub/restaurant which has managed to balance itself between the two”. Between the “reliable and fresh” British grub, “well-kept beers” and “friendly and efficient team” (plus a lovely garden) it’s “always a delight to visit”.

This comfortably decorated national chain feels akin to dining in a hotel, but minus the bedrooms; and its two London branches – near the Tower and in Putney – benefit from attractive Thames-side locations, where “it’s lovely to sit outside on a warm day by the river, or year-round in one of their igloo pods”. “There’s a warm fire inside with cosy armchairs”, too, which make the venues “fine for coffee or snacks”, although for more substantial meals “the food is only OK”.

2023 Review: This “excellent South Downs destination in a picture-perfect village” – “with fine, restaurant-quality cooking” from chef Jesse Bryson (ex-Noble Rot and Leroy) – “is flourishing for good reason”. The stone-built seventeenth-century pub was taken over in 2020 by Angus Davies, a former manager at Chez Bruce and Lorne.

A former courthouse with exposed beams plays host to this rustic and tiny European restaurant run by chef Nathan Marshall and FOH wife Evi, a “lovely lady” whose Hungarian roots sometimes inspire the fine-dining on the menu. On limited feedback this year, there were reports of some “delicious” dishes and as we went to press, demand for a table was so high that they were already fully booked for 2024! Top Tip – to circumvent the need to book way ahead, keep an eye on their Instagram account (@n.marshall_chef), where they sometimes advertise last-minute cancellations.