Haywards Heath, International Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “High-quality ingredients are cooked well and provided by welcoming staff” at this West Sussex gastropub, run for six years by the family team of Mark Dennis, a food-loving former accountant, and his son Simon, a professional chef.

2023 Review: “If you are happy with a food hall for your meal, then this is a good (but very popular) option” – this year-old venue has a “great location” on the seafront and features seven street-food concepts at a time. In her July 2022 visit, The Guardian’s Grace Dent was also wowed: “The food, with each delivery by a chipper server, continued to be far better than a food hall ever tends to be… we left Shelter Hall jubilant, £60 down for lunch for three people with drinks”.

“AMAZING! BRILLIANT! RAPTUROUS! I have no other words!” – the verdict of a London-based reporter regarding Dave Mothersill’s ambitious yearling, which made its debut last year near the Pavilion. Twenty six diners at a time can enjoy either an à la carte selection or a nine-course tasting menu for £95 per person. The former mostly concentrates on intriguing and affordable small plates for £10-20, but may also incorporate items like a 700g T-bone for £84 or fire-roasted lobster for £65. One local fan is bewildered: “how it didn’t get a star this year is God’s own mystery. I’m betting it will next year”.