Heswall, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2024 Review: Native Liverpudlian Andrew Sheridan upped sticks from Brum to relocate ‘8’ to a Victorian building in the city centre (next to the original Cavern Club) in April 2023. Seating is at one of two counters for, appropriately, eight diners; the lighting is low; much of the décor is black or slate-grey; and the level of ambition in the cooking is high, with the aim of delivering ‘an immersive sensory experience’. The eight courses (for £110 per head) are of very diverse inspiration and there’s also a wine pairing option (for £80 per head).

“Relaxed, always consistent, and with the best Sunday lunch in Liverpool” – that’s the most upbeat report this year on The Pool’s outpost of Gary Usher’s Elite Bistros chain, which aims to perfect a selection of straightforward bistro dishes from an à la carte menu offering two courses for £48 per person and three for £55 per person. It also took flak this year, though, for some “flavourless” offerings (“such a shame as we have thoroughly enjoyed previous trips”). Hopefully a blip?

“A well-thought-out range of well priced, sometimes interestingly different dishes” has made this lively venue a worthy follow-up to Paddy Byrne’s ‘Everyman Bistro’ (from which he moved here in 2015) and is likewise “ideal for pre-concert or theatre dinner”. As of Autumn 2024, it’s ‘temporarily closed’ with the website suggesting a relaunch after a refurb – given this uncertainty regarding its future direction, we’ve left it un-rated for the time being.

“Fabulous food with unusual flavour combinations, lovely staff and great service” make this neighbourhood bistro from Chris Edwards & Owain Williams “well worth the trip to the student quarter of Liverpool”. “Seasonality is the key here” – but “don’t come here for a romantic dinner-for-two: it’s buzzing!”. Top Tip – “the amazing early-bird dinner menu”.

“Very lucky to have this fabulous restaurant in our neighbourhood” says a very local supporter of this well-regarded, small venue in Wavertree. A visiting Londoner agrees, finding “very well-executed and very reasonably-priced Modern European fare in a cosy neighbourhood setting”. Last word goes to the local: “It’s first class – I’ve been many times and never had a bad meal”.

A “light and bright room with an intimate feel” is the backdrop to this “great version of a steakhouse”, where February 2025 visitor, The Daily Mail’s Tom Parker Bowles, found some “eminently respectable” cooking, not least the bone-in sirloin with “depth and heft and grunt”. The “interesting, eclectic collection of steaks” ranges from British and Irish beef to guest favourites dry-aged in their fancy maturation chamber, with “confident staff explaining each cut and course”, and also ferrying over “on-point” sauces, plus “plenty of sides to get stuck into” alongside the protein.

With “outside dining in a great location overlooking the racecourse”, this “elegant Georgian building” by the city walls also benefits from a “cosy pub atmosphere inside”. There’s a “varied menu, ranging from fish ’n’ chips, beef bourguignon and burgers to more interesting fare like gnocchi or veggie Malaysian curry”, and the “staff are pleasant and efficient”, in typical Brunning & Price style.

“If only all local areas had one of these!” – this small, neighbourhood bistro in the slightly obscure backstreets of Hoole (an easily missed, gentrified suburb beyond Chester’s train station) rose to fame when it was founded in 2011 as the launchpad of social media celeb Gary Usher’s Elite Bistros group. Neither the group nor this small site generate as much attention as once they did, but all feedback remains positive for its professional, friendly style and very affordable, focused modern bistro dishes (your meal might run Miso-glazed belly bacon, followed by Confit duck leg, with warm ginger parkin to send you on your way).

“An ex Michelin Star dining room with its eye on repeating the award for the new chef” – this “very traditional” dining room deep within the Duke of Westminster’s old dowager hotel next to the city’s ancient medieval walls (built in 1865) has a serene (its windowless) and “romantic” aura that’s either timeless or old-fashioned, depending on your tastes. “Service is personal, slightly relaxed in a good way, but still has some formality”. And when it comes to the food, chef Elliot Hill (who replaced Simon Radley in 2022, who had been in post over 20 years) seems to be hitting his stride better now, with many positive reports here this year. There’s either a five-course menu for £90 per person, or longer tasting menu for £115 per person. The wine list here is heavyweight too, although “with limited cheaper options reflecting the nature of the restaurant”. Top Tips – there’s a three course ‘choice’ menu for £75 per person (excludes Saturdays). Top Menu Tip – “The venison dish is a particular highlight with ‘hedgerow’ components (my partner who doesn’t usually eat venison absolutely loved it!)”

Next to Chester’s iconic Eastgate clock and at the front of the city’s poshest hotel (owned, like much of the city, by the Duke of Westminster), this posh pavement brasserie “has the hustle and bustle of a busy, big city destination” and even fans may concede that “the real reason to visit is the ambience (especially at Christmas time)”. It’s sometimes recommended in reports for a grand afternoon tea. On the downside, its brasserie fare can seem “overpriced” and service can take its time.

“A lovely find in Chester” – in 2025 Liam McKay celebrated his 10th year as chef-patron of this well-liked destination, which moved in 2023 to a more prominent new address, at the side of the Grosvenor Shopping Centre (next to its sibling ‘Twenty Eight’, see also). There is an à la carte menu, but it’s known for its longer six-course tasting menu at £75 per person. “The set price selection of small plates is superb value”; (“we saw some diners finish the set meal then repeat their order!”). “Many ingredients are grown at the restaurant’s own smallholding”.

Another characterful pub in the Brunning & Price chain (a red-brick former warehouse with plenty of reclaimed décor including a bar made of old mahogany doors) in an appealing canal-side location between the train station and city centre. It’s a “noisy” and sociable sort of spot and the food is of “good dependable quality”.

2024 Review: Feedback is more limited than we would like, but is enthusiastic over this grey-hued boutique hotel dining room, run from afar by game expert Mike Robinson. Chef Dan Regan oversees the preparation of a menu that majors in 40-60 day, dry-aged beef steaks from a selection of sirloin or ribeye cuts.

2024 Review: This “lively place” on the mezzanine of the city centre’s Duke Street food market serves “nicely presented dishes”, and benefits from the involvement of Merseyside food heroes Paul Askew (of The Art School) and Harry Marquart (Bone & Block). Aiming to provide an ‘intimate Scouse brasserie’, it launched in late 2021.

2024 Review: “A fantastic find!” – “neatly tucked away” down a smart city alleyway, this understated wine bar/bistro “feels like a secret discovery” that is “perfect for a cozy sojourn”.

2023 Review: Chef Harry Guy (ex-Savoy Grill and Mallory Court Hotel) will open his debut restaurant in Wildes Group’s new Chester boutique hotel in 2023 (originally scheduled for mid 2022), by ‘The Cross’ at the ancient heart of this picturesque town. The venue itself sounds quite a ‘do’: with 18 bedrooms, rooftop pool, amphitheatre sauna and terrace with views overlooking the city. An “invitingly dark” dining room is promised, and setting its sights on becoming “one of the finest restaurants in the country”.

“Less formal, and more economically preferable to its big brother Chefs Table next door, the food is simpler, and it’s very good” at this “excellent modern British” two-year-old, which sits on Pepper Street in a unit on the Brutalist side of the Grosvenor-Laing shopping precinct. “There is a wide choice of dishes using fresh locally sourced ingredients” that are affordable and excellent value.