Holborn, American Restaurant Guide

Can the arrival of Richard Turner – Meatopia founder and consultant to Hawksmoor, Blacklock and Pitt Cue – help turn around this sagging chain of US smokehouses, launched in 2002 and with 6-7 outlets at its height? His new menu was launched in March 2025 across the remaining Soho, Covent Garden, Camden Town (an all-day diner) and Tower Hill branches, with the focus on US-scale platters of ribs, pulled pork and other meaty cuts.

Opened in 1870 as London’s first licensed casino, this impressive Covent Garden mansion is proof that it takes more than a fine space in a handy location to make a terrific eatery. Relaunched as a luxurious American restaurant in 1991 (by the son of a Tory grandee), it aims to import Manhattanite sophistication, top-quality surf ’n’ turf and high-class brunch to the capital, alongside a popular Martini bar. But, while it does still receive the odd nomination as a place for a business lunch, it’s largely ignored in our annual diners’ poll nowadays.

With its glass ceiling, foliage and large suspended pendant lights, this large atrium restaurant within the conversion of the former Bow Street Magistrates’ Court is one of London’s more atmospheric dining spaces. Hitherto it’s scored more as a romantic than a foodie destination, but a new refit and relaunch under its new name in mid 2025 looks to change all that with the introduction of a contemporary American surf, turn ’n’ cocktails spin.

The Balthazar website promises an ‘elegant evocation of a traditional French brasserie with an authentic Parisian feel’, and many reporters feel that this “big” Covent Garden destination delivers just that: “good Gallic classics, a bustling (noisy) atmosphere all in a touristy area” (“with a wide menu for everyone, kids included… French onion soup and steak frites excellent!”). But while fans say that “if you go with that in mind, it’s a good choice for the right occasion”, there’s a persistent minority happy to write the place off (“very disappointing food and rushed service trying to get you out ASAP”, “at a high price”).

“Still got it”, say fans of this retro US stalwart in theatreland – a ’70s import from NYC, whose sibling still trades near Times Square – where “the ambience rather than the American brasserie food is the main thing, and that remains the case”. It had to move six years ago due to redevelopment: “they’ve done a decent job of recreating the atmosphere since the move from the beloved Exeter Street basement, although without the lovely long bar now… but it’s still a pleasure to visit”. Top Menu Tips – “ribs are as good as ever”; “the fried gnocchi for veggies”; and, of course, the famous off-menu burger.