Holland Park, Japanese Restaurant Guide

One of London’s original beacons of “modern Japanese sushi dining” to those in-the-know, Yasuhiro Minemo & Shinya Ikeda’s surprisingly under-the-radar venture has lit up a Kensington backstreet for 14 years – it can be “hard to find as it doesn’t look like a restaurant and the only sign is a blackboard, but it’s well worth it”. “Focused on quality ingredients and an authentic approach” – it’s far from inexpensive but consistently inspires “outstanding” feedback from its fans. It has spawned two offshoots: Ocean House in the old Brompton Library near South Kensington tube; and Sushi Kamon in Arcade Food Hall on Oxford Street.

“Excellent, innovative and delicious food” – a surprising Mexican/Japanese fusion dubbed ‘Baja-Nihon cuisine’ by its founder, restaurant entrepreneur Markus Thesleff – has made quite an impact at this “amazing” Notting Hill three-year-old (on the former site of famous chippy Geale’s, RIP), leading to the launch last year of a City branch with a huge rooftop terrace next to Liverpool Street station. Top Tip – “everything in this restaurant is gluten-free and suitable for coeliacs” (it’s also nut- and celery-free).

After shopping hours, the Supermarket of Dreams in Holland Park Avenue morphs into an upscale Japanese restaurant, with guests seated at a long central table. It started as a pop-up, and announced it was to become a permanent feature in March 2023. Dishes are created by Juan Cardona (formerly of Endo at The Rotunda), and Jaime Finol (formerly of Sumi) and sushi is the mainstay of the menu (as you’d hope, given the stellar renown of both those places in that respect). Reports please!

“You can’t go wrong if you order tonkotsu” at this ramen group from Tak Tokumine of the Japan Centre – the noodles and 12-hour pork bone broth are “authentic” and some of the “best in town”. The venues can be “cramped”, and “the constant banging of a drum to indicate dishes being ready can grate”.