Hovingham, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“If you want a hotel with a really good restaurant, this is the place for you” – Jacquie Pern’s “slightly formal” but reliably “quality” venture, occupies a “lovely setting” in a North Yorks village. “With the terrible fire at The Star Inn (next door, and run by Pern’s ex-husband), the Pheasant was taking the lead in looking after dining for the two operations” – but thankfully the Star reopened in Nov 2022, a year after it was laid low by an arson attack.

“Back after the terrible fire which is great news!” – Andrew Pern’s famous pub in rural Yorkshire is, say fans, “back at the top of its game” and – having “recently refurbished” out of necessity is “everything a top restaurant should be”. One of the top 100 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll: “it’s not really a pub” anymore and the interior is “as beautiful as the food”: “delicious cooking, using mainly local produce”. It would have scored even higher ratings this year, were it not for a couple of reporters who felt the offering didn’t live up to its high billing, but even they still rated it decently well. And most regulars are just plain delighted to have it back: “I make the pilgrimage there from London twice a year and have done so since 2004. It is just a fantastic all-round experience that never disappoints!”

Chef Josh Overington and his wife Victoria opened this new restaurant with three rooms in North Yorkshire at the end of June 2023 (well after our annual diners’ poll had concluded) in a converted old pub, formerly called the Malt Shovel (but still replete with beams, flagged floors and characterful details). Myse (which rhymes with cheese) is a follow-up to their Le Cochon Aveugle in York (which enjoyed stellar ratings in our survey) and provides a tasting-only formula, with fifteen courses for £125 and wine pairings from £65. Early vibes – for example from arch northern foodie Thom Hetherington – are very upbeat.