Hoxton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Under chef Isaac McHale, this famous Shoreditch destination blazed a trail when it opened in 2013. McHale remains, but he parted ways in November 2024 with co-founders, Daniel Willis and Johnny Smith (who now are focused on Luca, see also). Perhaps the parting of the ways is a positive, as ratings in our annual diners’ poll only improved this year and remain consistent with the kitchen’s solidly good performance in recent times. Admittedly, for some years now there’s been a perception gap between its current level of performance (“OK, but I think I had expected more”); and the dazzling heights is scaled during the venue’s heyday (two Michelin stars, World’s 50 Best…), when it helped put Shoreditch on London’s gastronomic map by tearing up the stuffy old rule book for fine dining with its confident, casual and creative culinary cleverness. That said, it inspired no stern critiques this year and remains “a favourite” for a very loyal fan club: “simply great…”, “always a joy…”, “really great attitude and attention to detail…”. The main event is an eight-course tasting menu for £225 per person (with wine pairing at £175), or you can opt for the ‘short’ six-course version for £195 per person. Top Tip – the three-course lunch menu is £95 per person and is available Wednesday to Friday.

This well-regarded boozer, just off Great Eastern Street, was one of the first in Shoreditch to have a reputation for cooking (in the early 2000s); and is currently on an upswing having hired MasterChef winner Nikita Pathakji to bring some of her refined magic to the kitchen in summer 2024. A busy gastropub is a very different prospect from her former gaffs (Bibendum, Core and Kitchen W8), but her “good Sunday lunch” is definitely a hit.

An “excellent” and “calming former pub”, just off the Regent’s Canal in Islington, which has wowed critics and civilians alike with “delicious food and friendly service” since its 2022 opening. Founders Rob Tecwyn & Adam Symonds have built on its success with the launch of the Kerfield Arms in Camberwell in early 2025.

Joe Laker’s 16-seater north of Old Street has won attention since it opened three years ago – for example it was in Harden’s 2024 Top 100 Best UK Restaurants – but still perhaps doesn’t make the waves that its level of excellence deserves: in particular, inexplicably it has yet to be granted its Michelin star. Served at a curved counter looking onto the kitchen: the main event is a nine-course tasting menu price at £145 per person (with a six-course menu at lunch £70 per person). In his December 2024 review, David Ellis of The Standard was upbeat although of the converted pub surroundings he queried “if this was a dream site or a case of financial compromise”. Still, no quibbles about the cuisine: “seasonal, sustainable and British, the usual stuff. But goodness, is it well done”.

“Captain Kirk is at the helm and the flavours are set to stunning” at this Shoreditch yearling from Great British Menu winner Kirk Haworth (and sister Keeley). It opened in July 2024, and seven short months later became “the first Michelin star vegan restaurant” – an accolade that’s “well deserved” according to practically all feedback in our annual diners’ poll (e.g. “This plant-based food is a revelation…”; “one of the most exciting meals I’ve ever had…”; “I have been waiting years for this restaurant to open,… at long last, an outstanding delicious and imaginative vegan tasting menu”). And folks are “loving the open kitchen and counter experience as well” – “Kirk serves you and chats” and the “wonderful” service generally “makes you feel like family”. If you were looking to criticise, you could say that the “space is somewhat cramped”. More typically, though, it’s just full-on raves all-round (“As someone who has banned any product in our house which contains the word ‘Vegan’ on the packaging, I could eat at Plates every week and not be bored!”). Top Menu Tip – “The lasagne is a highlight. Grateful for the excellent laminated bread, otherwise it would have been light on carbs”.

“Exceptionally creative seasonal menus focusing on one core ingredient at a time make Nest a unique proposition” – and the 2023 move from Hackney to bigger premises next to Shoreditch Town Hall has seen the food rating rise to its highest-ever level, with set menus based on specific British landscapes. “Execution and warm, personal service are still bang-on”, while “an improved wine list with some real rarities (fairly marked up too!) makes up for the slight bump in price”. Sibling to highly rated St Bart’s, this is “a place to return to again and again” .

2022 Review: Although it’s from the Anchor and Hope stable, this all-day operation near Hoxton tube is not a pub: it’s a new café (opened May 2021) within the rebranded Geffrye Museum (which features exhibits on domestic living since 1600). On offer – breakfast, lunch and buns, and – in the fullness of time – a dinner service.