Hungerford, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“I was expecting rather standard Home Counties fare, but instead I found delicious cooking and charming service all in an attractive barn-style setting”: this successful ten-year-old – a restored ‘run-down pub’ in West Berkshire countryside – boasts a “very lovely”, high-ceilinged contemporary dining extension and has become one of the most commented-on restaurants in our annual diners’ poll. Run by Alastair Storey (a top catering CEO), reporters are “delighted and frankly a bit surprised by the excellence of the experience” and – unusually for a rural venue – its “ambience and level of quiet formality make it a place in which you’d be happy to do business”. Its scores slipped a fraction this year though, on the back of some incidents of “mechanical” service (“in the old-style, fancy-restaurant way)” or the odd “ordinary” meal (“we have had better here”).

Australian Dan Bond’s unpretentious restaurant, which gained an outdoor marquee in covid times, is a real local hit; “you know everyone will like the food, you know it will be fair value” and “you know they’ll work their socks off to give you a good time”….“plus, Dan’s just a good bloke”, so “how could it not be everyone’s favourite?” Top Tip – “their occasional wine dinners are great fun too”.

“One of Rick Stein’s smarter outposts” – this centrally located outpost of the celeb chef family’s empire occupies a period building on the high street, and is a useful option in this surprisingly thinly provided area, including for “a business chat with friends”. Limited but positive feedback this year on its cooking, although the indication is that it’s “very decent”.

Dating from 1720, this “pub in a lovely village near Wantage” (“highly rural in the Lambourn valley”) offers a “warm welcome and superb food, backed up by a beefy wine list and high-quality service”. With a strong gastro history, it was taken over and renovated two years ago by the team behind Newbury’s highly rated Woodspeen and fans say “it has great potential”.

2023 Review: Complete with a riverside terrace, this privately owned pub near Newbury receives a good rep in our annual diners’ poll for its 40-seat dining room overlooking the river Lambourn, where chef Sam Cary aims to deliver ‘refined modern British pub food’. In an April 2022 visit, Tatler’s Fay Maschler declared it “a rare jewel of a country pub” offering “everything you want a welcome to be”.

2023 Review: After months of restoration, this 17th century Georgian building near Newbury re-opened in January 2022 and now boasts a traditional pub, very attractive pitched-roof dining room in contemporary style and 30-bed coaching inn, as well as a covered garden terrace. No feedback as yet in our annual diners’ poll – reports please!

2023 Review: “Always reliable, serving exceptional food for a village pub”, say fans of Dave Watts’s rural inn, where classic pub dishes jostle on the menu with somewhat more ambitious fare. Top Tip – “the plat du jour is unbelievable value!”