Kenilworth, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Still “maintaining a brilliant dining experience” a decade after winning the tyre men’s acclaim, this pub in a 19th-century building (the dining space is a former schoolroom, the bar an old butcher’s shop) is the brainchild of Andreas Antona, owner of famed Brum haunt Simpson’s, and chef Adam Bennett, who also used to work there. Regulars never seem to tire of its “supreme quality” (“celebrated our 150th meal here this year”), and it’s much “better value” than other venues of its quality. For its many fans, “Adam, Andreas and the team are to be congratulated” (not least “for enhancing the value of properties in the neighbourhood”).

2021 Review: “Pleasant and friendly” venue off the main drag: modern British dishes are “clearly made with both love and knowledge” in the semi-open kitchen, and “it’s good to interact with the chefs as they serve a course”; reasonable prices too.

2022 Review: This former fishmonger, butcher, casino, tailor etc. is acclaimed by locals for its “perfect fine dining in an intimate setting”. After pandemic lockdowns, it’s “back with a subtle but impactful makeover and a great new tasting menu” – now the only option, and ringing in at £65 for six courses.

2022 Review: It’s “nice to eat outside by the canal on a sunny day” at this well-run casual spot, with a useful menu of grills and sarnies.

2022 Review: The oak-panelled dining room at this Lutyens-style Relais & Château spa hotel makes a suitable setting for chef Paul Evans to showcase fresh produce from the hotel’s long-established kitchen garden. Long-serving chef-director Simon Haigh oversees the Eden hotel collection’s culinary offering from this flagship restaurant.

2022 Review: “A real gem in our local area” – this branch in the stylish, seven-strong Warwickshire-based 'Lovely Pubs' group has a lot to recommend it: “service is on the right side of friendly and very attentive”, they serve “great pub food, but restaurant quality” (including “fantastic seafood platters”), and if you stick to the main bar downstairs, there's plenty of atmosphere too.

Stop Press – in February 2023, ex-Simpson’s head chef Matt Cheal closed down his popular Henley-in-Arden venture, which was too small for his planned expansion, and upped sticks eight miles down the road to Knowle High Street, where he now co-runs things with the manager of the Jacques fine dining restaurant which previously stood in the new location. According to early reports, “the exceptional quality of Cheal’s food, not up till now as appreciated as it ought to be, has not deteriorated in its relocation”, while the new space – a former bank with a posh cocktail bar – is “comfortable” (if “a little too glitzy” for some tastes).

2022 Review: With its “lovely setting (indoors or outdoors)” and “nicely priced menu” of dishes from around the world – including a selection of “fantastic” small plates to share – this 200-year-old country pub with a contemporary brasserie extension is a useful option near Stratford.

This half-timbered town-centre fixture is useful for a “consistent offering” that includes “good-value lunch and pre-theatre menus”. “First ate here in the mid-80s with a Sixth Form school trip – it was good then and still is”.

Wild food chef and hunter-gatherer Mike Robinson is behind this “regular favourite” in a Grade II-listed building dating back to 1500 (and now host to the Indigo hotel chain). Reporters “love the excellent offering of game – particularly venison” (they manage their own deer herds and have a deer larder in the Cotswolds) and “everything is delicious” (“there’s an à la carte, thank god”) and given that they’re “cooking with flame” there’s also “plenty to watch”.

“Only the view can recommend it” – is the charge rather too frequently laid against what should be the ideal pre-theatre refuelling spot for visitors to the RSC. “It has stunning views over the river and park, so what’s not to like? Almost everything in fact!” according to its detractors – “we’ve been frequent visitors over the years and every time we go we hope it has improved, but sadly it never does” – “the food is average, the staff ill-informed about the menu”. Fans are a bit more optimistic: “a lovely setting for food that’s fine, if a little unexciting”.

Paul Foster’s casual but ambitious venue has had a slightly tumultuous year with the loss of its Michelin star in early 2024 and the closure of a short-lived London business that doubtless took up much time and energy. Some diners either found it “not as satisfying or memorable as previously”; or “went to Salt with high expectations, having heard enthusiastic reports from normally reliable friends”, and found food that “at a cheaper and less pretentious place would have seemed OK but which could and should have been more exciting”. On the plus side, though, all diners still award good-or-better food ratings, and there are still encouraging reports (“contrary to some others, my impression is that the restaurant has moved from strength to strength, with the quality of the cooking being extremely good and the frequently locally sourced ingredients working together to deliver excellent and delicious dishes”). As of autumn 2024, the restaurant has moved to a tasting menu only format.

“Sitting around the pass watching the chefs work calmly and efficiently really adds to the exceptional experience” at this “stunning space, tucked away deep in the Warwickshire countryside”, which has fully justified the pivot the property made a couple of years ago from a more conventional country-house experience to this very contemporary venture built into the walled garden of the manor house. “The design of the open kitchen and restaurant is impressive, with most tables afforded a view of the chefs at work”. “The 15-course menu is equal to the setting, with faultless cooking matched by a really heartfelt dedication to produce and its provenance and care”. “To cap it all, you are very well looked after by a team who are obviously passionate about their ideas”. “The overall quality of the 15 courses is excellent and for most courses the provenance of the main elements is identified”. “Visit in summer, and it’s a pleasant end to the evening to be able to sit around the fire pit in the courtyard”. You can also book an Overnight Experience that leaves those who stay “greatly impressed with the set-up” and with accommodation that’s “stylish, comfortable and quirky”.

Stop Press – in October 2024, Glynn Purnell announced that he was shuttering his eponymous Birmingham restaurant, which had held a star since 2009, but was apparently no longer financially viable. Fortunately, this two-year-old outpost from the Brummie chef is still in business, turning out hearty, high-quality pub food like pies and steaks in a period building on the high street. Reports this year were a little muted – mostly to do with the “very noisy” dining room (the garden and pub areas are usually preferred) and the slow service, both a “pity as the basic food is very reasonably priced and interesting”. Perhaps in time the chef will re-focus here?

“This must be the most ‘undiscovered’ fine-dining restaurant in the West Midlands”, say fans of this yearling from locally born and trained Rob Palmer, formerly head chef at Hampton Manor, whose debut as patron is a 26-seat open-kitchen venue in a former computer game shop. “Food and service are first-class”, and if it’s “a little pricey, it’s worth it”. In the evening, the five-course menu is £85 per person; or there’s a seven-course option for £99 per person.

2022 Review: In a refurbished eighteenth-century boathouse (hence the name), this “excellent riverside bistro/café” delivers a “high-quality fish and seafood menu” – plus airy views of the Royal Shakespeare Theatre from the balcony.