Kensington, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Abu Dhabi royal Sheikh Tahnoon bin Zayed al-Nahyan was – as of mid 2025 – rumoured to be on the verge of buying a £1 billion stake in Richard Caring’s restaurant empire, of which this famous brasserie chain is the crown jewel. Presumably, he’s more interested in ‘rolling out’ the brand in The Gulf and beyond rather than dropping by for a Salmon Fishcake and ‘Ivy Chocolate Bombe’, but if he’d asked the opinion of our annual diners’ poll, we’re not sure that he’d sign on the dotted line. “How can a restaurant with this heritage produce such uninspired, tick-box food?” is a question merited by its poor ratings, ditto what explains the “very slow and disinterested service”? The answer may be that “you don’t come here for the food, obviously” but for the “gorgeous” interior design and “picturesque” locations that continue to underpin their appeal. Let’s hope for the Sheikh’s sake that the middle classes of the Arab World are as undiscerning as those from the UK!

No-one would quibble that this “gem in a sidestreet off High Street Kensington” is a “great local high-end place” – in the vein of a “lovely neighbourhood-style venue” but with “always fabulous” cuisine from chef Mark Kemson (with input from afar from co-owner Phil Howard). Having possessed a Michelin star since 2011, it’s quite “serious” in style, with “an air of calm”, “knowledgeable” service and “well recommended wines to accompany the meal (never had a bad bottle!)”. Even so, ratings remain stuck in the middle-ground here, being capped by the ratings of some diners, who either feel the food is “solidly good rather than exceptional”; or who find the room too “unadorned and plain”. Top Tips – look out for game in season; early evening and lunch set menus are excellent value.

“Yummy mummy hangouts” that have proliferated across the capital and its surrounding high streets over the past few years, with “relaxed and colourful décor” and “friendly waiting staff”. They are very accommodating to families, both “child-friendly” and “pooch central, with snacks and water” – although if you don’t bring your own, you might find there are “too many dogs”. The eastern Med-style cooking varies between “fresh and well prepared” at best to “adequate, sometimes slow” – while “bottomless Bloody Mary or Mimosa on a Sunday can be dangerous!”.

“Not so much a gastropub as a restaurant attached to a stylish pub/wine bar” – this upscale local, tucked away off Kensington High Street, has been gradually transformed over 25 years by two generations of the Staples family. The food (which according to the website ‘maintains the sensibility of a British gastropub, combined with techniques and flavours from the 21st century’) is “consistently reliable”, backed up by “excellent service and a very warm welcome”.

This smartly modernised pub (fka The Princess Victoria) near the Kensington entrance to Holland Park has an upstairs dining room serving “high-quality food that is good for the price” from chef Max de Nahlik.

“They have really hit the spot!” at this “shiny new” but “retro-vibe” pub, which opened in late 2024 in the former Kensington Wine Rooms premises (RIP) south of Notting Hill Gate. Former hedgie Jamie Allsop (who has resurrected his 300-year-old family brewing tradition and serves his own beers on tap) “has done a great job keeping it reasonably priced for the area” and chef Lorcan Spiteri provides “very comforting” grub “from very well sourced ingredients cooked to a very good standard”. Many of the press critics seem to be mates with Jamie and have raved too. Top Menu Tips – “excellent anchovy toast to start”; “go for any pie available”; “pork chop, pie and polenta are all polished versions of their usual pub personas”.