Kensington, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

What does it say about the culinary tastes of the British middle classes that this spin-off chain, with about 40 locations based on the original Theatreland icon, has been such a rip-roaring success? True, there’s some “great people-watching” at the “always buzzing” Chelsea Garden venue (which has one of SW3’s best gardens). And, without doubt, those branches in Kensington, Tower Bridge and Kingston also particularly stand out amongst the rest for their “super atmosphere”. In general though, the knock-off look of their locations “isn’t a patch on the original on West Street, yet pretends to be exactly the same”. And when it comes to their brasserie dishes: although its many followers tout them as “acceptable, albeit nothing special”, their rating-average identifies them as “underwhelming tick-box fare”; all offered by service that’s very “indifferent”. And yet they are “always busy”! In June 2024, it was announced that billionaire Richard Caring had successfully sold his entire Ivy restaurants stake. Now that he is laughing all the way to the bank, it will be interesting to see if ratings reverse, continue or deepen their southward trend.

“Feeling like a neighbourhood restaurant but with the Michelin-standard cooking you would expect from Phil Howard (a partner in the management)”: this “charming venue” – “tucked down a side street away from Kensington’s main drag” – remains something of a “hidden star”. But even those who feel it continues to “excel quietly” can feel that the “low-key” setting, though “comfy”, “needs an injection of energy”. Top Tip – “the £34 fixed-price lunch is a steal”.

A “buzzy” atmosphere and “welcoming service” are the strong suits of this “expanding group”, with 16 branches in London and another handful nearby. While nobody disputes that they’re “lovely to sit in” and offer “value for money”, the “Middle-Eastern-inspired cooking” divides opinion, with some reporters “pleasantly surprised by the tasty food” and others bemoaning “underwhelming” dishes that “sound better than they taste”.

“Not so much a gastropub as a restaurant attached to a stylish pub/wine bar” – this upscale local, tucked away off Kensington High Street, has been gradually transformed over 25 years by two generations of the Staples family. The food (which according to the website ‘maintains the sensibility of a British gastropub, combined with techniques and flavours from the 21st century’) is “consistently reliable”, backed up by “excellent service and a very warm welcome”.

2021 Review: With its “beautiful views over Kensington Gardens”, this “quiet and comfortable” hotel restaurant makes a useful venue for lunch or afternoon tea. “The service is a perfect blend of efficiency and friendliness”, while the Sunday roast – sirloin of Buccleuch beef, carved from the trolley – is “delicious”.

If Hollywood was going to film a cutesome Kensington scene, it might well choose the picturesque sidestreet location of this “ideally romantic” townhouse, where it’s “always a pleasure to have a meal”; and which, under various owners, “has been satisfying diners for a few decades now”. The “quiet and cosy” interior is “conducive to conversation” and sets the scene for Ben Murphy’s “classy” modern European cuisine from an “impressive menu that’s excellently presented”. At least, it did before August 2024, when Murphy resigned – presumably demoralised by Michelin’s stoic (pig-headed?) refusal to recognise this place with a star despite it being so clearly merited. His final services are in October 2024, and given the uncertainty surrounding this D&D London venue we’ve removed its excellent ratings for the time being. At dinner choose a three-course à la carte for £75 per person, or a seven-course tasting option for £105 per person. Top Tip – lunch is a relatively cheap £42 per person for three courses.

A short walk south from the Kensington entrance to Holland Park, this corner gastropub was converted a couple of years ago and makes an “atmospheric” choice. The menu is “short and not cheap for what you get”, with a focus on high-quality dishes like rib of beef to share or wild sea bass.