King's Cross, Indian Restaurant Guide

“You nearly always have to queue for a table – often for at least an hour – but the atmosphere is amazing and the food is worth the wait” at Shamil & Kavi Thakrar’s unbelievably successful chain: again, the most commented-on business in our annual diners’ poll, which has stormed the capital since it first opened in Covent Garden in 2010. Outlets in Canary Wharf and Battersea Power Station opened in late 2024, bringing the total in London to seven, and each branch has its own intriguing character, with the unifying theme being a homage to the Irani cafés of post-war Bombay. “Very much a well-oiled machine, there is little sign of any drop-off in quality as the group expands”, while “for such large places the brilliant service is remarkably friendly and efficient”. Meanwhile, the “deeply flavoursome and satisfying” menu has introduced Londoners to “authentic and delicious dishes that aren’t just another copycat Indian selection”, with such “zingy and exciting flavours”. And morning-time in London will never be the same again, since the advent of their “great Anglo-Indian breakfasts”. All-in-all, “the whole approach is inclusive and exciting”, “it’s always buzzy and fun too”; and “overall and for the price point you can’t go wrong!”. Top Menu Tips: “the black dal is to die for!”; “superb okra fries”; “the roomali roti is sublime”; “the lamb chops are excellent”; “Chicken Ruby is dreamy”. In the mornings, “the unfailing Bacon naan is a thing of poetry”; “chilli cheese toast hits the spot every time”, and “drink the lemon ginger and honey chai”.

“Absolutely delicious Sri Lankan dishes” attract a “noisy, buzzy” crowd to this “squashed” Soho spot, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year (and whose owners, JKS Restaurants, have now opened spinoff branches in King’s Cross and Marylebone). “Staff work their socks off to get everyone fed” and the grub – “bone marrow vadhuvai + roti chennai, cabbage, aubergine, hopper etc” – is “tasty, and not shy on spice” (it’s also “particularly good for people on gluten-free or lactose-free diets as they supply separate menu cards”). All this said, the cooking no longer excites the adulation of the early days, with a suspicion in some quarters that it’s now “only slightly different to a ‘normal’ curry”.