LONDON, International Restaurant Guide

“The energy is fab” at this “busy and buzzy” Mayfair haunt, whose large central bar, pavement tables and green leather stools import a sense of chic Italian glamour to this corner-site a minute from Bond Street. The Italian food (cicchetti, risotti, pastas, traditional mains) doesn’t detract from the occasion, but is “highly priced for average quality”, albeit “all decent”; and “service can suffer when it’s over-busy”. Nowadays part of Soho House, its branches spread from Berlin to West Hollywood, via the City of London (in The Ned). Comments on the latter aren’t terrible, but less enthusiastic than those for W1.

2021 Review: “Ranks with the best beef I’ve ever had in London” is typical of the high praise earned by this smart three-year-old. “Mind you, it is right next to Smithfield” – a fact reflected in its straight-to-the-point menu – “and the maître d’ knows just the right wine to wash it down with”. It occupies an architectural gem of a townhouse once home to Sir John Betjeman.

2023 Review: The vaults of The Royal Exchange are to become a posh Citified food court at the hands of the Incipio group, whose other operations include Pergola on the Wharf in Docklands and White City’s Dear Grace. Open in October 2022, this is the business’s seventh venue.

2023 Review: With a terrace overlooking Broadgate Circle, this May 2022 newcomer is an all-day, 115-cover operation that’s part of the City’s glossy, new 100 Liverpool Street building and serves a menu of French brasserie classics such as escargots, beef tartare, coq au vin…. The name hints at its guest chef series concept; some of the country’s top culinary talents are promised as part of a programme to transform the offering each month via special dishes and ticketed events.