LONDON, Italian Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: This 55-year-old City trattoria is a popular, lunchtime rendezvous spot on account of its “huge” helpings of classic dishes; its terrace by Bow churchyard for al fresco eating; and its good regional list of Italian wines.

“Smart and buzzy”, “reliable but expensive” – the underlying themes in reports over the years on this duo in Chelsea and the City, where “fresh Italian food is generally well done, if a little safe and uninspired”. Top Tip – the Duke of York Square branch benefits from a heated terrace as well as conservatory and garden, making it a “happening place when the sun shines”.

2022 Review: A “family-run trattoria” three minutes’ walk from St Paul’s that rates highly for its “varied Italian menu” – and it’s notably well priced for the City, too.

“The restaurant formerly known as Osteria has recently re-emerged from a makeover as the Barbican Brasserie, but still operated by catering company Searcy’s”; and still with a vaguely Italian spin on its selection of modern European dishes. It’s “a smart venue overlooking the lake”, which this year was more often “recommended for reasonably priced dinner” – especially prior to a show within the centre.

“In a great location opposite Smithfield Market”, and “an excellent pre-theatre option near the Barbican” – this “cheap ’n’ cheerful” Italian is “very popular” for its “decent, solid staples” (in particular “good – and huge – pizzas”). “Go hungry.”

“A nice pit-stop for pasta lovers” – this expanding chain is now up to its fifth restaurant spin-off from the original Soho deli (with the June 2023 opening of a new 80-seater, overlooking Clapham Common), and fans say it provides an “attractive”, “buzzing” setting for “simple dishes, well cooked”. A meal is “unlikely to live long in the memory though”, and there’s a growing fear that “as they have expanded the quality has dropped”. Top Tip – at the W1 original (est. 1944 originally as a deli) “sitting upstairs or by the bar is lovely, the windowless basement is not particularly comfortable”.