LONDON, Japanese Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “Good value” sushi, sashimi and other Japanese dishes trundle past your seat at these two ‘kaiten’ (conveyor-belt) operations in the City, tempting you to help yourself. It makes a fun, fast and efficient way to grab lunch. The chain also has takeaway and delivery options for evenings.

These noodle bars are “great if you need a quick and satisfying lunch” – either in the original Soho branch, which celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, or its offshoots in the City’s Bloomberg Arcade and Hackney. They specialise in udon noodles, which are fatter than ramen and served in a more refined and traditional Japanese dashi stock.

The original (Whitecross Street) branch has become take-away only, but this simple Japanese business has a new sit-down venue five minutes away. Having always been one of the few dining options near the Barbican, it’s now practically in it – occupying a unit in a 31 storey building (Heron House) on nearby Moor Lane. Some reports rate it as very good, others only average, but it justifies its ongoing inclusion by the paucity of other decent options nearby.

“Horribly overpriced but love the atmosphere” – to cut to the chase, that’s the key take-away on this duo of Japanese/South American fusion outfits: part of a slick US-chain originating in NYC 25 years ago, and now with branches from Singapore to Las Vegas, via the Middle East. The WC2 branch sits on top of Covent Garden with exceptional views over to the Royal Opera House, although (for our money) it’s the City original – up fast lifts on the 38th floor of the Heron Tower with fancy cocktail lounges and stunning views – that really stands out. The food – an eclectic Nikkei mashup incorporating tempura, crispy taquitos, samba rolls, sushi, robata dishes and large plates – is delicious but ultimately “nothing to write home about” when you consider the gargantuan cost.

“You can’t go wrong if you order tonkotsu” at this ramen group from Tak Tokumine of the Japan Centre – the noodles and 12-hour pork bone broth are “authentic” and some of the “best in town”. The venues can be “cramped”, and “the constant banging of a drum to indicate dishes being ready can grate”.

Neither its prime City location – overlooking Broadgate Circle – nor its experienced heritage (the Hong Kong-based Aqua group, with their Aqua-branded operations in the Shard and on Oxford Street) have helped garner huge attention for this glossy December 2022 newcomer: a minimalist Japanese, where chef Ken Miyake offers ‘crystal sushi’ (draping sushi rolls in coloured jelly slices with kimchi, ponzu or mint and sake favouring) plus robata-grilled meats and noodles. The exception is a January 2023 review from the Independent’s Lucy Thackray, who said the “dizzying” selection of dishes “hit the mark, when it comes to the trifecta [of] presentation, flavour, quality”. She also noted, though, that portions are “petite”; and that it’s “easy to rack up quite a bill”.