Lancaster, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This striking Art Deco building was brought back to its former glory in the late 2000s after falling into disrepair and today its dining room is “one of the loveliest places to enjoy a romantic dinner over tables facing out to the sea”. While most attention goes to the exemplary afternoon tea (comprising “perfect sandwiches, delicious scones and cakes”), there was also praise this year for some other “delicious” cooking.

“Craig Wilkinson continues to do what he does so well in his family-owned old pub, that lent its name to the hamlet and former railway station of Bay Horse” (on the West Coast Main Line). It’s been in his family for over two decades, and continues to provide “classically-inspired food” (e.g. Black pudding, Puy lentil cottage pie, Chocolate mousse) “that’s very good indeed”. “If you happen to visit on a warm, sunny day, dining al-fresco in the garden is a very pleasant experience”.

In its current format since 1984 (and originally built in, er, 1688), this pub and restaurant won renewed interest and good all-round feedback in our annual diners’ poll, in part down to a favourable December 2023 visit from The Observer’s Jay Rayner: he praised a listed building that’s “deliciously seasoned with history” and “seriously impressive”, proper “cheek-slapping, belly-pleasing” food – notwithstanding being massively let down by its décor and “eye-achingly awful” website.