Lickfold, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“The castle is situated in a picture postcard setting” – down a long drive through gardens with the portcullis still working – and “in the upstairs dining room of this luxury establishment you could imagine a long dining table and the nobles sitting round and having a feast”. No surprise that it always induces feedback, particularly as a “romantic choice”. But there’s general agreement that the “traditional British cuisine” is somewhere between OK and “nothing too special” (“The food doesn’t live up to the stunning setting and the predictability of the menu means we visit much less often these days”).

“A very welcoming home from home feeling” underpins the appeal of this characterful venue, cutely located amidst the antique shops of this civilised small town. An upscale bistro/brasserie menu “tastes delicious and is locally sourced” and there’s also “an extensive wine list and cocktail list to choose from”. Top Menu Tips – “Lovely tender and generous portion of Wagyu beef croquette to start. The lamb rump had some really creative vegetable choices with an eastern hint”.

“Given the reputation of the chain of Pig Restaurants/Hotels, we were looking forward to a very enjoyable evening; and it was enjoyable… but not because of the food”. Too many reports this year had significant reservations about this branch of the famous shabby chic hotel chain, where “the conservatory restaurant is very pleasant on a sunny day with long views across wooded Sussex downland”. “Rammed and noisy, with a car park full of expensive motors, this beautiful spot in the South Downs (reached by a narrow lane)” can “ultimately seem more style than substance” for a number who comment. “The food is pleasant, nice, but nothing special… better than adequate but not worthy of their reputation”. “The menu focuses on sourcing ingredients from within 25 miles, including some zero-miles vegetables grown on site – but the cooking doesn’t justify the prices. It’s at the level you might expect in a pub that serves decent enough food but with no pretensions to being noted for its cooking”. “In other words, a restaurant in lovely surroundings living on their reputation not their quality”. “Service is satisfactory but a touch amateur at times” and at others “disengaged”.

This restored village pub offers “some great food in an area that needs more restaurants – their stuffed bao bun was worth the trip on its own”. Its co-owner, model Jodie Kidd, posed nude for a new pub sign to protest that pub closures are ‘stripping’ Britain’s heritage; it was removed on council orders in 2023.

It’s “always a pleasure to eat” at this “charming location with equally charming owners and staff” – chef-patron Lee Parsons and his wife Liz have clocked up ten years at this “absolute favourite family-run restaurant”, which is particularly notable for its “über-fresh and expertly cooked fish” among other “delicious and imaginative dishes”. There’s a “lovely, friendly atmosphere”, and you “leave with a feeling of money well spent (unusual these days!)”. Top Tip – “if you’re driving, allow 15 minutes to find somewhere to park”.

In a “great situation on the beach” and in an even greater, Heatherwick Studio-designed building – comprising long, undulating ribbons of raw steel that are akin to driftwood – this is “more of a hybrid” than your standard seaside caff: whether you want a snack or a three-course meal, “the menu always has something for everyone, with delicious fish dishes” a feature.

“It’s such good fun to watch the kitchen in action” at this boutique hotel, set in 93 acres with views on the South Downs, where the dining room is named for the open kitchen, an approach to fine dining which it helped pioneer when it first opened in 2008. Ben Wilkinson is at the pass nowadays with his team, and provides an ambitious seven-course tasting menu for £150 per person. It’s won the venue many accolades, and such feedback as we have is very positive, if not quite as prolific as you might expect for somewhere with a Michelin star and 4 AA rosettes.

“This 1920s-recreation of a medieval country house scores highly on atmos’”, having been designed for a scion of the Guinness brewing family by antiquarian and architect Amyas Phillips. Feedback on the tapestry-clad dining room was up-and-down last year, but there was nothing but praise in this year’s poll for its “professional” cuisine and “superb” service, with the “good value set lunch” (two courses £33, three courses £38) excellent value given the setting. It’s particularly recommended as somewhere “good to impress the in-laws”, and if you’re ready to pull out all the stops, bag them a room in one of the hotel’s cottages or houses that wind down to the Climping Coast.

“Everything about this place is outstanding”, from “the grounds of lovely Leonardslee Gardens” (owned by entrepreneur Penny Streeter) to the “17-course tasting menu, which is a real experience of foraged ingredients” from a “well-drilled team” led by South African chef Jean Delport – a contestant in Great British Menu 2025. The whole evening is a “well- executed performance”, and “the attention to detail is fantastic” (“we walked in without saying who we were, but they knew about us and our dietary restrictions”); (“by course number 14, we were completely stuffed and had to take home a doggy bag of petits fours!”). Top Tip – “the rooms are also fantastic and well worth the stay, so you can walk things off on the estate the next day”.

As it heads into third decade, Viv Casson’s “slightly dated but cosy” restaurant (rustic, with exposed brick and many a beam) has long been known in these parts for its “lovely food and service”, which extends to regular themed dinners, including eight- or nine-course tasting menu nights.

“Everything looks and tastes wonderful” at this rural pub with views of the South Downs, where “the menu is a little bit different” and “friendly service with a smile just adds to the enjoyment”. The country cousin in Brighton’s Gingerman group, it focuses on “high-quality” ingredients from within Sussex, including local ales and wine from the Ridgeview estate a couple of miles away.

2022 Review: “The food is excellent, and you’re made to feel welcome” at this showcase for the produce of the Goodwood Estate, an early convert to organic farming (although Lord March, the Duke of Richmond, is better known as a petrol-head). “They’ve turned the courtyard into a lovely space”, and the highlight of the menu is the ‘butcher’s board’ sharing selection of various meat cuts.

2024 Review: This 200-year-old local pub at the foot of the South Downs is “well run and popular”, with a “well-executed and great-value menu” of superior gastropub fare.

2023 Review: With its “delightful setting looking out across the South Downs” – a view from the window said to have inspired William Blake’s anthem Jerusalem in 1803 – this eighteenth-century coaching inn is quite a draw, especially in summer when you can dine in the garden. The cooking is generally “creditable” (although both highs and lows were reported this year). The business has been owned since 2007 by Giles Thompson, formerly executive head chef at The Ritz. Jerusalem.

2022 Review: Current owners The Epicurean Collection – behind a string of boutique pubs and inns – have a hit on their hands with this award-winning venture: a “worthy addition to an area generously supplied with high-quality country pubs”. The rolling South Downs beyond the windows inform much of the “imaginative menu”, with a particular accent on introducing non-shooting folk to game (the latter courtesy of the local Goodwood Estate).

2023 Review: This “excellent South Downs destination in a picture-perfect village” – “with fine, restaurant-quality cooking” from chef Jesse Bryson (ex-Noble Rot and Leroy) – “is flourishing for good reason”. The stone-built seventeenth-century pub was taken over in 2020 by Angus Davies, a former manager at Chez Bruce and Lorne.

“Love the ambience… no pressure to quit the table and nice to overlook the river” – such are the plus points of these flexible, comfortable and welcoming homes-from-home in the Home Counties and in London near Tower Bridge and in Putney. Celebration? Both locations also feature funky little Thames-side ‘igloos’ seating up to 8. Looking for great food too? Don’t bother! “Disappointment” is often registered regarding the salads, pizza and other very middle of the road fare – keep your celebrations as liquid as possible…