Little Shelford Restaurant Guide

This gastropub from the local Cambscuisine group, in an affluent commuter village south of Cambridge, is “worth a detour for its lovely garden and good-quality food from friendly waiting staff”. (The pub is named for its flamboyant owner from the 1970s, ‘Squire Kim Joseph Hollick De La Taste Tickell’).

In a “lovely setting” in the village made famous by the poet of its name, this pub was taken over after our survey by Pascky Benedetto and his wife Laura, who moved in from the nearby Plough at Coton with a new offer including £6 house negronis and a signature carbonara with guanciale – although the menu is by no means all-Italian. We have removed the rating for this year – but reports please!

2023 Review: Limited but positive feedback on this successful vegan, which shifted to this new location in a new development near the station in 2021. Worth remembering if you are catching a train and a place of pilgrimage for those who eat meat-free. It’s a rare Cambridge eatery that has spawned openings in the capital (see also).

This Grade II-listed city-centre staple (once a coaching inn welcoming travellers on the road to the Big Smoke) has long been a magnet for locals owing to “always reliable” and sometimes “very good” bistro dishes and “excellent service” to boot; visit in summer months to profit from the lovely walled garden.

2021 Review: This “meaty joint” occupies an attractive converted mill, complete with working water wheel. It “continues to please students and locals in its airy space overlooking river and millpond (I saw a kingfisher!)”.

2022 Review: “Consistently excellent burgers from a small fleet of vintage Citroën vans” – painted bright yellow and red – ensure this small local brand has high visibility around Cambridge. You can also sample the burgers from a more conventional bricks and mortar site in Wheeler Street.

2023 Review: “Focused on simple dishes, with excellent ingredients, all elevated by sharp cooking” – the year-old grill at this new Graduate Hotel (named for the previous hotel on this site) wins positive feedback in our annual diners’ poll (but too limited for a rating).

“Incredibly inventive vegetarian cooking and lovely staff!” continue to inspire nothing but high praise from the very dedicated fan club of Alex Rushmer’s small, ethically driven and sustainably sourced venue. “It really does not get any better than this place. Who cares that it’s meat-free... it’s just fabulous, tasty food”.

A “beautiful setting” in the University Arms hotel, which relaunched alongside this tavern in 2018 after an £80 million transformation, adds considerably to the charms of a visit to this brasserie overlooking Parker’s Piece green. Local chef Tristan Welch, who honed his talents alongside a triptych of star chefs – Roux Jr, Ramsay and Rhodes – is a keen promoter of East Anglian produce, which informs the menu; the latter is usually deemed sound.

“A fantastic selection of beers (and gins)” makes the popular former home of E. M. Forster “a very useful and welcome gastro-choice in central Cambridge, where other options are not great”. The food is “reliable” and “decently done but nothing earth-shattering”. Top Tip – “stay downstairs: the upstairs dining room can have a chilly ambience”.

The “British classics (whitebait, Barnsley chop etc)” are “all fine” – and “given its prime tourist location, much better than you might expect” – at this “pleasant” spot opposite King’s College Chapel. But do try to grab a street-level table, rather than heading “downstairs to the dark and pokey basement”.

“LOVE this chain and would happily eat there any day!” – These “always buzzy” Nordic operations (originating in Copenhagen 30 years ago) provide a “tasty mix of sushi and grilled yakitori kebabs” in Scandi-minimalist dining spaces. One or two reporters hesitate at the prices for these luscious morsels – “not sure you can justify the cost of leaving full up” – but the overall satisfaction-level is high. They added a branch in Richmond’s former House of Fraser in May 2024 followed by another on Islington Green in September.

“Our go-to for breakfast on a Saturday in Cambridge” – with its “beautiful art deco-ish dining room”, this branch of the glossy national chain has a cohort of fans who reckon it’s “always a pleasure” to visit. Worth considering, in this still underserved university city.

2021 Review: Look out for the bright yellow Citroën van, if you want to try veteran restaurateur Regis Crépy’s latest venture, selling Alsatian pizza-type Flammekueche in a Cambridge food court. For a tasty, cheap ’n’ cheerful snack that’s a little out of the ordinary, these “light”, “fresh-tasting” and “reasonably priced” wafers of bread dough complete with toppings are just the job.

2022 Review: Ambitious and “exciting” Indian cuisine is on the menu at this Cambridge operation, which crossed the road into new premises in late 2021 (rendering obsolete complaints of “peeling wallpaper”). Reporters recommend choosing one of the tasting menus, which offer seven courses of standard, vegetarian or vegan dishes – “it meant that I tried dishes I wouldn’t normally choose and really opened up new flavours to me”.

“Everything that a lavish foodie experience should be – just wonderful”. Daniel Clifford’s Victorian villa remains one of the most accoladed restaurants in the country, and under chef Mark Abbott continues to plough a very steady course thanks to his “extraordinarily accomplished and delicious cooking”. It helps that it’s a pretty house in a gorgeous location: set on lush Midsummer Common, next to the Cam and with the backdrop of the university’s many boathouses on the opposite bank. There’s only one fly in the ointment here, and it’s the fact that at £270 per person for the evening (15-course) tasting menu, the price tag is a very large one and even some who say the food is “very good” can still find it “overpriced”. But for most, it’s “unfaultable”, “with a lot of fantasy and love for detail and really worth the journey”.

This “buzzy” trio (with live jazz at its Gwydir Street branch) has grown over a dozen years since founder Simon Fraser returned to his hometown from Melbourne, bringing a taste for Antipodean coffee culture. “All three branches including their roastery in Shepreth offer excellent coffee and light food, but their bread is the main event – it’s world standard!”

“Delicious thin-crust pizzas” and “incredible service”, “what more could you want?” – “we came here tired and hungry, we wanted good pizza without a wait and that’s exactly what we got”. Scott Holden’s Mill Road outfit also majors in ‘bottomless’ brunches.

Despite its out-of-the-way location on Mill Road, Holly & Dan Fancett’s “lovely, local French-style brasserie” is one of the most commented-on destinations in the city in our annual diners’ poll. Why? Especially in this still patchily served varsity town, it’s “fairly priced”, serves “very good food”, has an “intimate” atmosphere and provides “very personal attention to customers”.