Llyswen, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: This “fab former stately home” set in “beautiful grounds” in the Welsh countryside was restored by Laura Ashley co-founder Sir Bernard Ashley. Known for its “exceptional food”, it has lost two highly regarded head chefs in recent years, Nick Brodie and Sam Bowser, but still achieves strong ratings across the board.

A “warm, friendly atmosphere and good-quality food” have made this comfortable gastropub-with-rooms on the edge of the Brecon Beacons a “favourite” countryside retreat for many diners over the past 25 years. New head chef Gwenann Davies presides over a seasonal menu with just half a dozen or so choices of starters and mains. It’s the flagship of Charles & Edmund Inkin’s Eatdrinksleep group, which also comprises the Gurnard’s Head and the Old Coastguard in Cornwall.