London Barbican Restaurant Guide

“The restaurant formerly known as Osteria has recently re-emerged from a makeover as the Barbican Brasserie, but still operated by catering company Searcy’s”; and still with a vaguely Italian spin on its selection of modern European dishes. It’s “a smart venue overlooking the lake”, which this year was more often “recommended for reasonably priced dinner” – especially prior to a show within the centre.

The “excellent meat-driven menu” at this “busy bar opposite the Barbican” is led by British game in season, backed up by prime cuts of beef and such treats as Herefordshire snails. “It’s not simple pub grub, and you do pay for it, but it’s worth it”, say fans. It’s also “particularly useful pre- or post-events in the nearby arts centre”.

“There are so few dining choices near the Barbican, it’s worth knowing that you can get decent sushi and other obvious Japanese options here at Pham”, a short walk away; which particularly benefits from “fast and attentive” service. Some critics, though, feel that “evening visits without an expense account cannot justify the prices here”. There’s also a caution that “you should skip the house specials and stick to the simpler choices” as “several of the fancier options seem excessively performative”.

2023 Review: “A vegan delight”, say fans of this meat-free three-year-old near Barts Hospital: a crowdfunded spin-off from an acclaimed Cambridge venture. Results can be uneven (“maybe I chose badly…”; “some of the food missed but more was a hit…”), but they must be doing something right as a new Broadgate branch launches in September 2022.

“Smart and buzzy”, “reliable but expensive” – the underlying themes in reports over the years on this duo in Chelsea and the City, where “fresh Italian food is generally well done, if a little safe and uninspired”. Top Tip – the Duke of York Square branch benefits from a heated terrace as well as conservatory and garden, making it a “happening place when the sun shines”.

2021 Review: “Ranks with the best beef I’ve ever had in London” is typical of the high praise earned by this smart three-year-old. “Mind you, it is right next to Smithfield” – a fact reflected in its straight-to-the-point menu – “and the maître d’ knows just the right wine to wash it down with”. It occupies an architectural gem of a townhouse once home to Sir John Betjeman.

“Still one of the steak stalwarts of London…”; “still our go-to place for a relaxed night out…”; “still the place for a discreet business meeting in the City…”. Few brands inspire as much long-term adulation as Huw Gott and Will Beckett’s steakhouse chain, which has ridden the zeitgeist since its founding in 2006; and which is now (with the help of Graphite Capital, who own most of it nowadays) to be found in NYC and Dublin, as well as Manchester, Edinburgh and Liverpool. A “terrific” cocktail in the bar, precedes “awesome steaks with fantastic side dishes, all in a cool setting”. At least, that’s long been the accepted wisdom anyway, although there’s a widespread feeling that quality “has dropped off a bit in recent years”. In this year’s annual diners’ poll, ratings improved in some respects and declined in others, with historical concerns over stratospheric prices supplanted by niggles that maybe the formula is just “starting to look a tad tired” and that service – though often “excellent” – can also sometimes seem increasingly “impersonal” (“you are just a number!”). The majority verdict for the time being, though? Still “always hits the spot”.

“Good mezze and grilled meat” help tick the boxes for “delicious food that is not expensive” at this Turkish business with five branches in the City – making them suitable “for business or social occasions” (although they can be “noisy”). In summer 2023, the group made its West End debut with the opening of Olea Social in Covent Garden, with a more general Mediterranean focus.

“In a great location opposite Smithfield Market”, and “an excellent pre-theatre option near the Barbican” – this “cheap ’n’ cheerful” Italian is “very popular” for its “decent, solid staples” (in particular “good – and huge – pizzas”). “Go hungry.”

2022 Review: A “family-run trattoria” three minutes’ walk from St Paul’s that rates highly for its “varied Italian menu” – and it’s notably well priced for the City, too.

“You actually feel as though you might be in a brasserie in France” at this City-fringe “favourite”, tucked away in an atmospheric former warehouse, near Smithfield Market (and long predating the trendification of the area). “A great staple for both business and pleasure”, it “has a lovely atmosphere with a real, vibrant buzz which should surely impress” either a client or date. The “pleasing”, solid Gallic fare offers “decent value”, but “it is the overall experience that makes it stand out”.

“Fine fish, delicately cooked and served” is the speciality at this “smart modern restaurant on the top floor of a hotel” near Broadgate, from D&D London. Food of this standard is rare in the City, and “not even the dullest business chat can take the edge off the outstanding cooking and wines”. It’s a discreet place, too, “and the team knows when to shoot the breeze with diners and when to withdraw to let the serious negotiations take place”.

2023 Review: A handy location, near the Guildhall, “buzzy” large interior and versatile menu of “decent (if unspectacular) food” mean it’s worth remembering this “reliable option in the City”, although it “can be incredibly busy”.

“Still love the place…” – Trevor Gulliver and Fergus Henderson’s icon of British cuisine coined the concept of ‘nose-to-tail dining’ and hasn’t missed a beat since it opened in 1994, in a “stark-but-chic” ex-smokehouse, near Smithfield Market. Known for its “sometimes challenging menu (not least for its selection of offal dishes)”, it continues to deliver “totally brilliant”, “straightforward” dishes (“the cuts may be humble, but the results are of the highest grade”) from “good old-fashioned recipes” in its distinctive “white-walled, down-to-earth” setting, whose ultra-utilitarian style is livened up by “entertaining” service that’s “very kind and personable”. Top Menu Tip – “puddings are to die for (I don’t have a sweet tooth but this is the only restaurant where I ALWAYS have a pudding)”.

“Authentically fiery dishes” light up the menu at this City Road restaurant where head chef Zhang Xiao Zhong hails from Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan – a third-generation chef, his grandfather was personal chef to Deng Xiaoping, China’s leader through the 1980s.

“An exceptional list of wine with so many to choose by the glass that it’s always possible to try something a bit different” is the key selling point of this popular modern wine bar chain. Its culinary attractions are less reliable – the food can be “surprisingly good” but is too often “essentially average”; service can be “accommodating” or “rushed”; and the ambience can be “better if you can sit outside”. But its “excellent value” drinking and “lively” style carry the day. In particular, the “conveniently placed” King’s Cross branch has a “great location, which makes it a winner”. Top Tip – “creditable set lunch at a pretty restrained price”.

2023 Review: “A reliable spot for light Italian-style lunch or dinner” near Silicon Roundabout, with a strong drinks list courtesy of its co-founders: sommelier Michael Sager of Sager + Wilde and mixologist Marcis Dzelzainis. “The pizza dough is some of the best and the toppings are very different from your usual Italian”, the pasta is home-made, and the grills are “just as good”.