London Notting Hill Restaurant Guide

“World-class cooking from the best female chef in the country” inspires nothing but reams of rapturous reports on Clare Smyth’s “seemingly effortless and very special” Notting Hill HQ – again the No. 1 gastronomic choice in our annual diners’ poll and “well deserving its three Michelin stars” (the same of which could not be said for most of London’s other holders of these laurels). The “virtuoso” cuisine is “simply exquisite” yet “without seeming pretentious”: it says something that one of this Northern Irish farmer’s daughter’s key signature dishes is made out of potato! “Everything from the welcome, the theatre of the kitchen, the execution of the cooking, the comprehensive wine list, the crisp, airy and bright dining room and the enthusiastic and delightful service” provides a “profoundly good experience with incredible attention to detail”. “Clare is in the kitchen each time” and regularly greets guests personally, and “although the bill is high, it is not outlandish for the culinary performance that is delivered”. “Always at the top of its game” – ratings here have held very steady in a year that has seen wobbles at many of its rivals.

This “cool vibes” Portobello Road hang-out with a “let-your-hair-down ambience” was carved out of an old Notting Hill boozer by nightclub entrepreneur Nick House (Mahiki and Whisky Mist). The tapas-y food, by former River Café chef Theo Hill, divides opinion: it’s either “exemplary” and “delicious”, or “sloppy”, “heavy-handed and over-priced”. Top Tip – “if you don’t like noise, ask for a table upstairs”.

This appealing café/restaurant in Notting Hill is “just a gentle place to be”, with a modern eastern Mediterranean menu inspired by founder Victoria Paltina’s visits to Tel Aviv.

This “decent Notting Hill Italian” is “always mobbed (and the back area is particularly noisy), but the basic fare is great quality and the service is smiley”. It has notched up a quarter of a century, and spawned two offshoots in the same street – Essenza and Osteria Basilico.

A “local favourite” in Notting Hill for more than 30 years on account of its “always-consistent” cooking, this rustic Italian is the sort of place with something for “every member of the family”. It has spawned two offspring in the same street, Essenza and Mediterraneo – an indication of how well it suits the neighbourhood.

2021 Review: Egg-citing Notting Hill arrival of a California-based chain majoring in… you guessed it… which beamed down from La-La Land into Portobello in late-summer 2019, too late for survey feedback. Signature dish is ‘The Slut’: a coddled egg on potato puree in a jar, plus sliced baguette.

“Jackson Boxer’s sublime Notting Hill outpost remains an out-and-out favourite, from the laid- back vibe to the small but perfectly formed menu” – that’s the unanimous view on his “beautifully lit and cosy” four-year-old: a “consistent and fantastic neighbourhood restaurant” serving superb, “inventive” small plates all at a “very reasonable price”. Top Menu Tip – “special kudos has to go to the caviar served simply with potato chips and sour cream just as it should be”.

2021 Review: For “a perfect end to a Saturday morning on Portobello Road”, some still recommend this US-diner-style haunt. But while it’s fine if you’re a trustafarian working off a hangover, or just posing around Portobello, you wouldn’t cross town.

“Tasty, good-value noodles” in a “relaxed environment” make this 12-year-old London chain (14 branches, plus Brighton and Brum) “worth a visit”. The “ramen is deep and fabulous” if “limited in range (no fish-based dishes except prawn)”, and is augmented by “quite acceptable katsu curry”. Aficionados should head to the Haggerston branch to watch the noodles being made.

Lady Bamford’s quartet of London ‘rus in urbe’ cafés should have caught the zeitgeist, with their focus on home-produced organic ingredients from her estate. But the offering is variable, with food that’s too often slated as “poor”; or incidents of “staff hanging around not knowing what to do”. The Pimlico branch scores the best of the bunch, but it’s worthy of note that visitors to the Daylesford farm mothership in the Cotswolds report an altogether different and “delightful” experience.

With its “perfect pub atmosphere”, “pretty front garden” and “excellent, interesting food that never disappoints”, this unusually gracious Ladbroke Grove local is “a real contender” as one the capital’s better hostelries. On the debit side, service was often said to be “up and down” this year (“smiling and helpful, but run off their feet”).

“An excellent Greek, with a brilliant, relaxed atmosphere. Being Mediterranean, the staff love children. Highly recommended!” – In the thick of Portobello, this cosy spot is only three years old, but fairly conventional in style, complete with ‘traditional comfort cuisine’ and live Greek music.

“Still one of the best Turkish grills in town” – this Ladbroke Grove fixture might be “a bit spartan”, but “speedy service and BYO” make it a “cost-effective alternative to eating at home”. Top Tip – there’s “slightly less-packed seating in the extension next door”.

“Stunning salads, amazing pastries” and a “lovely variety of interesting prepared dishes” have stood the test of time at Yotam Ottolenghi’s “vibrant” deli-cafés – still hugely popular 22 years on from the launch of the first in Notting HIll. The Israeli-born chef and writer has had an enormous influence on the way people shop, eat and cook, helping to create a whole category of modern Middle Eastern cookery and “totally living up to his reputation as a leading expert in vegetarian cuisine” – even though his premises serve meat and fish. An occasional quibble – “the prices? Too high for a few stalks of broccoli even taking into account the undoubtedly skills of the Chef!”

2023 Review: A perpetual hit with the minted ne’er-do-wells of Notting Hill, this chichi old boozer changed hands in early 2022. Previously a plaything of Guy Ritchie and David Beckham, its new owner is posh nightclub owner, Piers Adam, owner of Prince Harry’s old favourite, Mahiki. Nowadays billed as ‘in collaboration with The Craigellachie Hotel’ (also owned by Adam), the website promises that ‘The Walmer brings the essence of Speyside to London’ although – cue cynical laughter – this apparently includes such Caledonian specialities as Crispy Monkfish Tacos, Truffled Lobster Macaroni, and Salmon Ceviche. Whether the trustafarians who cram the place will notice anything other than the fun new refurb and more single malts at the bar is debatable.

“Excellent breakfasts… you just need to be patient” – “after all these years, the queue outside is there for a reason” according to fans of this Aussie-inspired chain, owned by celeb chef Bill Granger. There are five nowadays, but it’s still the OG Notting Hill branch – cited by fans as “the best brunch spot in West London!” – which receives the most attention. But whereas all feedback acknowledges the “nice buzz” they create, ratings are capped by reports of food that’s merely “meh”.

“Back with a bang!” – Brett Graham’s “superlative” Notting Hill HQ ‘pressed pause’ during Covid, but re-opened in 2022 to near-universal acclaim. “Technically exquisite, with delicate preparation and flavour combinations” – “his cuisine was straight back in with two Michelin stars – zero surprise there!”. (But there are also widespread misgivings about prices that risk becoming “just too expensive”). “Many of the old staff remain and balance efficiency and familiarity with aplomb” and “Brett is very visible to chat with”. “To top it off, with the new interior it has such a relaxed vibe now”. Top Menu Tip – “unbelievably brilliant mushrooms”.