London Southwark Restaurant Guide

Fans do still hail the “fabulous meat” at Roberto Costa’s quirky Italian steakhouse group, but it has lost some of its red-blooded allure in recent years. “The restaurants look appealing and the menu looks promising”, but lower ratings bolster those who feel “the quality has dropped with expansion”, as it has grown to six venues across London (and a sister concept, Fish Game, opened in Canary Wharf in mid-2023); and at its worst, it can deliver “distinctly average steaks” at “steep prices”.

“Fresh, pungent sharing plates”, “cooked in front of you”, backed up by “good wine options” – win praise for this tiled bar in a railway arch near Borough Market (founded by Max Graham, from the Churchill’s port family), which does “just what Portuguese tapas should do”. “Characterful service” contributes to a “wonderfully relaxed” atmosphere.

“It’s amazing what they can achieve with simple ingredients”, and there’s “always cheerful and efficient service” at this “little sharing-plates restaurant” close to Tate Modern, which has won a solid reputation for its “very talented” founders Lucy Pedder and Natasha Cooke over the past six years.

“The most original brunches” – with “a good selection of super-tasty, tapas-style dishes” fusing eclectic flavours from the Middle East to the Pacific – are the top feature of these “nicely vibey” haunts, which also boast “great coffee and pastries, plus interesting non-alcoholic drinks (like sodas and kombuchas)”. And they serve “lots for vegans and veggies too”. On the downside, they become “noisy”; staff can be “overstretched” and ratings are dragged down by those who find them “a convenient option, but, in truth, a slightly disappointing one”. Expansion is still on the cards, though, with 2023 seeing a big new opening in Covent Garden, in a workspace on Drury Lane, complete with outside terrace.

“Bouncy, chewy, doughy deliciousness – the crust is to die for” at this pizzeria that uses seawater to make its dough. “The lovely little restaurant in Borough doesn’t look anything special during the day, but in the evening it’s very romantic with candles and soft lighting”. Some reckon “the food in St James’s is nothing like as good as the original in Borough”.

Northern Chinese fare including “authentic and tasty dumplings and noodles” make either of Wei Shao’s duo (Borough Market and Soho) “a great standby for a quick and fun meal”. “A Chinese that’s worth a visit for an evening bite and not just for dim sum – and which doesn’t break the bank – is a rare find in London.”

“Tasty, good-value noodles” in a “relaxed environment” make this 12-year-old London chain (14 branches, plus Brighton and Brum) “worth a visit”. The “ramen is deep and fabulous” if “limited in range (no fish-based dishes except prawn)”, and is augmented by “quite acceptable katsu curry”. Aficionados should head to the Haggerston branch to watch the noodles being made.

“I would never have imagined chicken ’n’ chips could be so delicious! It’s like being on a mini holiday!” – the original, “über-busy” SE1 branch of this growing chain of “posh Nandos” is a smash hit. “The yummy food, the fabulous greenery, the buzzy atmosphere, the extensive vinho verde wine list. Who’d have thought such a gem would be found under a grubby railway arch in South London!” Expanding under owners MJMK (who also own Lisboeta and Kol), the group has a less-high-profile Shoreditch spin-off; and is also set to open in 2023 in Victoria, on the site last occupied by Hai Cenato (RIP). Top Tips – don’t just stick to the peri-peri chicken – look out for the African rice, chorizo and other menu options. Also, at SE1 “there is a downstairs, but try to eat upstairs in the lovely loft-style space, with plenty of light and enough plants to require a full time gardener!”

Former Ottolenghi chef Eran Tibi showcases his accomplished take on modern Israeli cuisine at this fun Tel Aviv-style venue in a Southwark railway arch, on which all reports were upbeat this year.

Long-standing tapas bar in a tiny converted pub near Southwark tube that’s “great fun and like being in Spain” – tucked away in a backstreet, it is handily close to the South Bank’s arts venues, including Tate Modern, the Old Vic and the National Theatre.

“Decent croissants and the best brews”, delivered by “unfailingly lovely service, however long the queues”, still win legions of fans for London’s original cool coffee shop group, even if it has real competition these days from more Antipodean-style challengers. “They’ve been my top choice for over 35 years, but I can no longer cope with the uncomfortable seating at the OG Covent Garden outlet, so SE1 it is”, which is “perfect to combine with a Borough Market visit”. There’s also a third branch at Bermondsey’s Spa Terminus.

Hosting a range of pop-up kitchens and bars, these “lively and fun” sustainable markets have sprung up across the capital since opening in an ex-paper factory near Elephant & Castle in 2016, a year after the concept was launched at Milan’s World Expo. They make a flexible and affordable option that particularly comes into its own in summer – the Canary Wharf branch on Wood Wharf is “brilliant for sitting outside overlooking the dock”; and SE1 boasts London’s biggest beer garden.

“A first-choice Asian restaurant” – say fans of this “friendly, buzzy” chain serving “delicious” Taiwanese filled buns that can constitute “a quick bite for lunch, or a longer meal with friends”. Launched as a street-food stand in 2012 by Erchen Chang, her husband Shing Tat and his sister Wai Ting Chung, the group is now backed by the all-conquering JKS Restaurants and opened its sixth venue in Battersea Power Station in 2023. Top Tip – “beef with black pepper sauce and rice is a must-order at King’s Cross”.

“Crowded… slightly crazy-busy… top oysters supported by a changing menu of fish and crustacea” – that’s the package at this trio of “busy” bistros in Borough Market, Battersea Power Station and South Kensington. “You come here for the seafood, not to be fawned over. The decor’s a little rough and ready but the food’s so fresh and delicious”.

“Excellent modern cooking with Med influences” and a “good natural wine list” are the strengths of this Borough Market staple that has championed organic and biodynamic wine for more than a decade; and which was joined two years ago by a spin-off near London Fields. The cuisine is “down to earth, with some stonking small plates” and matched with “efficient service and a relaxed atmosphere” to provide a “very enjoyable meal”.

This “reliable” fish specialist on the edge of Borough Market has raised its game in line with the location’s emergence as a culinary mecca, and can accommodate guests year-round, either indoors or on its street terrace. The team has recently opened La Gamba tapas bar at the Southbank Centre.

“Properly authentic tortillas and tacos transport you to Mexico City” with their “spicy but very delicious” flavours, at this Mexican duo from the Hart Brothers, whose original venue in a “great location” on the edge of Borough Market is deservedly “very busy”. The Soho branch has a late-night basement bar, ‘Mezcaleria Colmillo’, while ‘big sister’ Casa Pastor at Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross (see also) features live music.

“Quite simply the best cheese and onion toastie ever” – and equally yummy raclette – is found at Bermondsey raw cheesemaker Bill Oglethorpe’s Borough Market stall, named after one of the proteins in milk.