London St James's Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: “Great name… even better food” say fans of this casual, Japanese-inspired dining experience within a Soho hotel, whose all-day dining possibilities (breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea…) were conceived by star chef Garry Hollihead. Too limited feedback as yet, though, for a full rating of its mix of poke bowls, salads, sliders and main plates, complemented by an oriental cocktail list and sake menu.

Old-fashioned Mayfair dining room within a luxurious 94-bedroom hotel, whose retro offerings include Dover sole filleted at the table and a wide variety of afternoon teas. For a traditional British experience, it’s recommended in all reports.

Ties festooned from the ceiling is the signature look of this veteran St James’s location, which makes a civilised launch-pad for an evening in the West End. With help from Northcote’s Lisa Goodwin-Allen, the menu – well-rated in reports – offers light US-inspired bites (ribs, jambalaya prawns, mac ’n’ cheese).

“Nowhere else like it!” – for “sheer class, history and pedigree” it is hard to match London’s oldest restaurant in St James’s (est. 1742, on this site since the 1980s). If you are a traditionalist, it is “perfect, perfect, perfect” – “a quintessentially British restaurant specialising in premium-quality fish and seafood – plus also game and meats” – whose discreet and comfortable old-world surroundings are typical of nearby clubland, complete with booths and well-spaced tables; and all orchestrated by “impeccable staff”. It’s best enjoyed if your Wealth Manager is treating you, obviously, although complaints about its notoriously terrifying prices were quite muted this year. Top Menu Tip – “Start with a dozen wonderful, plump oysters and a sharp red onion and red wine vinegar sauce. Then call over the carving trolley for several slices of perfectly rare meat from the large roast sirloin of beef”. Or take your pick of the caviar, lobster or twice baked Stilton souflé and “it’s a case of lunchtime heaven”.

“If it was good enough for Queen Elizabeth II, it’s good enough for the rest of us!” – Gavin Rankin’s “very civilised, old school” brasserie in a cute Mayfair mews has a “lovely old-fashioned vibe” (and was one of the few restaurants in the UK in which the late Queen ever ate out). “Peaceful and very enjoyable”, it’s one of those rare dining rooms where jacket and tie are still the norm (although the dress code is an unwritten one). Staff are “utterly professional” and “predictably discreet”. “Start an evening with cocktails at the bar (next to the restaurant)” and then move next door for “classic French cuisine” that’s “lovely” but won‘t scare the horses. Top Tip – “the counter bar is also a great spot in which to have a posh fish finger sandwich!”

“THE place to go for top-class Californian cooking in London” – Victor Garvey’s Soho five-year-old may be “eye-wateringly expensive” (“the price, ooh la la!”) but serves “top-notch cooking well deserving of its Michelin star”. “SoLa is that rare place that sources genuinely top-class ingredients and cooks them to perfection”: presenting them in either a 10-course tasting menu for £139 per person, or 17-course tasting menu for £229 per person. There are also drinks pairings to the above (at £170 and £230 per person) and a “fabulous” wine list drawn mostly from the US (and primarily, but not exclusively, from the West Coast). Despite refurbishment two years ago, the café-style ambience is the weakest link in the experience.

“It is not the cheapest option in town”, but this “always-busy”, “classic” Italian (founded in 1945) is very “well-situated” and “does deliver consistency”; hitting just the right note for a “Central Casting” crowd of St James’s regulars, many of them clad in the expensive pin-striped suits sold in the local gents’ outfitters. “The food is good without being exceptional”; “staff know their clientele and make them feel special” and although the question is raised – “do the tables have to be so close together?” – such “intimate” seating is perfect for the local property and art dealers to gossip over. “It’s pricey for sure… but that’s Jermyn St for you”.

A “real favourite” of well-heeled foodies, this classy if relatively unsung Mayfair hotel dining room boasts in “William Drabble, the most underrated of chefs – and one of great longevity” after 15 years at the helm. There is an eight-course ‘Menu Gourmand’ (for £125), but also à la carte options (starting in the evening with a two-course meal for £82 – lunchtimes are cheaper).

“Really classy Indian food with a modern twist” from head chef Sameer Taneja is “professionally served” at this Mayfair luminary, which remains near the “top of the pile” as one of the UK’s best known and most respected ‘nouvelle Indians’. It occupies a “large” first-floor space on Berkeley Square, and the setting gives a very stylish and sophisticated impression, well-suited to a special occasion. Top Tip – “superb tasting menu”.

“Excellent ceviche” and “amazing cocktails” take top billing at Arjun Waney’s vibey Peruvian operation, which has branches in Mayfair and the City, as well Paris, Marbella, Mykonos and the Middle East. There remains an undercurrent of feeling that it’s “over-priced”, but the overall verdict is that “the food is great!”

“You can sit at the grill if you want added excitement” at this traditional basement Japanese in St James’s, where there’s the option of either a teppanyaki or sushi counter, as well as more conventional seating and a private room. All reports this year were of “superb” meals.

“Staff could not be nicer” at this veteran Soho Italian, which originally opened in 1971 but has shifted site twice in its lifetime (most recently in 2021, from nearby Poland Street). “The new venue is in the old style and it’s as good as ever”. Fans value “having a reliable, independent Italian in this part of London” and its “delightful”, personal approach particularly underpins its appeal. It also helps that the cooking is “very authentic” and “reliable” too: “standard dishes from a sensibly short menu but nicely done”.

“You never feel cramped or too close to other tables” in the gracious West End flagship branch of Carlo Distefano’s national group of old-school, comfortable Italian restaurants (London was one of the last destinations of a chain nowadays numbering about 20). Culinary results are “consistent” from the “very comprehensive menu” – if there was a gripe this year, it was over the odd let-down on the service front.

“Still a really good location and format” – this Soho ‘tapas haven’ is increasingly forgotten about nowadays, but can still merit a visit. Its Italian/Spanish dishes “aren’t as good as they used to be” but are “solid, and better than many offerings in the area”; and there’s an interesting selection of drinks. Also, “it has a really relaxed style, but with all the vibe of neighbouring Carnaby Street”.

“For a quick bite” in touristy parts of town, all with a bit of affordable glam thrown in, these “closely packed” Italians with their wide range of Venetian-style Cicchetti have carved a sizeable following: fans say “the small-plates formula works well” and “the whole place buzzes”. Ratings came under more pressure this year, though, with service – generally “swift and charming” – sometimes found “rushed” or “rather random”.

This “sumptuous” and “traditional” dining room hidden away in St James’s is long on “elegance and friendly service” and remains something of an “unknown gem”. The cuisine results from the collaboration of star chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen (from sister property up North near Blackburn, Northcote) with the executive chef here, Jozef Rogulski and – although some disappointments were registered this year – overall ratings remained high. Top Tips – in the afternoon, there’s “an extensive range of teas and trolley service for both savoury and sweet choices”; and “the very elegant breakfast is a lovely experience”.

“I love Bentley’s!” – “You always come away happy and well fed” from Richard Corrigan’s carefully nurtured institution, which has a “lovely, old school feel that’s not too formal”; and which celebrates its 108th year in 2024. “Choose upstairs or down depending on your preferred level of formality”: “downstairs is jollier” – “the Oyster bar is an absolute favourite” – while “upstairs is more calm and quiet”. In both locations, you can enjoy “consistently great” fish and seafood prepared in a traditional style. And in summer, the “gorgeous”, big, heated terrace on the pavement outside comes into its own. Personable service is “attentive”, but “you are left in peace” when required and this is a “great and reliable central London business choice”. Top Menu Tip – “the dressed crab here is the best in town”; “wonderful oysters, and the specials are always worth checking out”.

“These very big premises were once a prestigious tailor’s” – then more recently a branch of the Browns brasserie chain – and are now “a pub-like restaurant in the middle of Mayfair”. Fans are impressed by “its competent realisation of a standard menu” of British classics. But service can be “somewhat patchy” and food can be “fairly average” as a result.

The Mayfair original of this small group is celebrating its tenth year, with a Belgravia sibling and café-style offshoots in similarly chichi Chelsea and Kensington. It channels a retro ‘dolce vita’ vibe, with an Italian menu that “delivers on the brief if nothing more”. The latest addition is an all-day café, which opened in December 2023 next door to the Dover Street flagship.

“Well worth a visit” – this “sympathetically restored” Mayfair hotel is originally Victorian (from the 1850s), although the wood panelling and square cornices of this basement dining room owe their looks to the 1930s. It continues to perform extremely consistently under chef Sofian Mstefi, who provides a seven-course menu for £122 per person (and there’s also a five-course option for £85 per person served Tuesday-Friday). We received nothing but all-round praise this year, with it winning nominations as both a business and romantic venue; and with many reporters enjoying their best meals of the year here.