Mayfair , British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“Yes, it is expensive (if not by Mayfair standards) but it is a meat-lover’s nirvana in a great setting” – that’s long been the accepted view on this quirky, grill room (est. 1952) behind a Young’s pub, tucked away in a scenic central mews. “Old fashioned pies, mixed grills and excellent steaks” are washed down with an “impressive, if over-priced, wine list” and served in a quaint, period setting, whose “overcrowded tables are part of the experience”. In the last couple of years, though (even prior to the departure last year of well-known manager Oisín Rogers), ratings have been on the slide. Some “shockingly bad” cooking has been reported, alongside service that’s “so indifferent”; and the current impression is that they are relying ever more heavily on their “captive market” of local business-lunchers.

“Always sparkling” – this “glamorous” Mayfair “classic” (007’s favourite) is nowadays second only to its Theatreland stablemate Sheekeys in terms of the total number of nominations it receives in our annual diners’ poll; and likewise in the rankings as a “go-to place for fish”. More “sophisticated” (and expensive) than its rival, the crowd is better heeled and more A-lister here than in WC2 (and also, perhaps, with a greater share of “flash Harrys”). “Excellent Dover Sole”, “the best crab” and “top-quality fruits de mer” are typical of the “superb seafood”, “classily” delivered by “professional” staff, all of which make it popular for most occasions, including business entertaining. “It slipped down in the estimations” of one or two reporters this year due to general concerns that it risks becoming “overrated and overpriced”. But for the vast majority, the feeling is still that although “it’s obviously not cheap, it’s a real treat and a totally reliable one at that”.

“Even better than The Ritz…”, “on a par with Fortnum’s…” – for many aficionados of London’s top afternoon tea experiences, this wood-panelled drawing room within creaky old Brown’s Hotel is the top dog. Built in 1837 (and with famous patrons including Queen Victoria and Agatha Christie) – it helps that it’s “a lovely, traditional space”: “delightful and just more intimate” than its main rivals. “Nothing is too much trouble (even to please a picky sub-teenager!)” and “the sandwiches and tea are just as good as elsewhere”.

The “focus on home-made British pies” makes this trad Mayfair pub a crowd-pleaser, “tucked away” off Regent Street close to Oxford Circus. From the same stable as the Guinea Grill, it now has a smarter restaurant upstairs, along with a rooftop terrace. Top Menu Tips – “the pastry pies are best for hungry young adult males, while the shepherd’s pie is excellent if you want something lighter”.

“Like a holiday in heaven!” – this “simply wonderful” Louis XVI-style chamber is known for its “OTT but magnificent” decor, and creates an “unbeatable location” for a special celebration, particularly an important date. John Williams commands a brigade of 60 chefs in the kitchen to provide “absolutely wonderfully executed, classic dishes, some using gueridon service – so rare now – and always adding a sense of occasion”. It’s “some of the best cooking in London”, and though “horrendously expensive” is justified by the “utterly sensational” all-round level of performance, which also includes “professional and kind” service and a wow of a wine list. “The Ritz is unusual in still having a jacket-and-tie dress code (about the only time I wear a tie these days!)”. “A band provides music, for dancing, at dinner on weekends (although there is a significant supplement for this)”.