Musselburgh, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Truly exceptional food and always-lovely service” have won renown for this six-table operation on the south side of the city, which provides a no-choice tasting menu experience for which you are advised to leave two-and-a-half hours. In March 2024, chef Conor Toomey moved on and Tyler King is now at the stoves. Given this change so close to our annual diners’ poll, we’ve left it unrated for the time being.

This pioneering venue, just off Holyrood Road, was founded back in 2002, and even with far more competition locally these days has kept its crown as the city’s best-known veggie; the “very enjoyable” food (“even for non-vegetarians”) combines Scottish traditions with influences ranging from the Med to Japan (think veggie haggis alongside tofu stir fries).

Dramatic views are guaranteed at this striking cantilevered structure, where you look out over the city from Calton Hill through large floor-to-ceiling windows. Feedback here has always been surprisingly limited however, and it inspired a dearth of reports this year, so we’ve removed any ratings for the time being.

2021 Review: This “real gem” on the road to Leith – “family-run with flair and passion” – “uses unusual cuts of locally sourced meats and seasonal produce to keep the cost of lunch to £10”. It’s “intimate and cosy, but on a hot summer’s day, sitting outside sipping wine and eating the amazing fresh food the kitchen sends out is a real treat”.

“Flavours just sing and they are so good with textures and deft seasoning” at Roberta Hall-McCarron’s renowned foodie hotspot – “a small dining room with a laid-back atmosphere”. Numerous best meals of the year are reported here from either a three-course menu for £69 per person, or a five-course version for £89 per person. All of the good number of reports we receive from its dedicated fan club say it’s plain “terrific”.

2021 Review: Owned by the Crolla family (who started Valvona & Crolla, Scotland’s oldest deli and Italian wine merchant – see also), this sixteenth century fine dining spot is a beacon on the otherwise touristy Royal Mile owing to its “well-cooked and well-seasoned” Scottish fare and “good value Sunday lunch”; for a truly intimate dining experience, try ‘Halo’, upstairs, which seats just four.

2021 Review: “Get the best seats in the place” (at the back, which offers “beautiful views” of the castle) to make the most of a visit to this city-centre staple, also turning out “enjoyable” cuisine of a modern European bent.

2022 Review: “Good all round” – this popular and well-priced Marchmont venue keeps a local crowd happy with the French-accented dishes sent out by its owner-chefs, a Sicilian/Canadian couple who live nearby. A proper two-course lunch costs under £20, which adds to the appeal.

It’s “not often that you go to a restaurant and it’s a pleasure to order the entire menu”, but that’s the case at Stuart Ralston’s minimal-chic New Town venture, where the selection is limited to a baker’s dozen of “spectacular” Asian tapas-style dishes, inviting you to explore (or possibly over-order).

“Well deserving of its Michelin Star!” – the Radford family’s converted Victorian warehouse (originally built as a props and costume store) has built a strong culinary reputation since it opened 11 years ago and was finally recognised by the Tyre Men in their 2023 awards. A five-course menu for £115 per person is the entry-level option (although there is a more extensive tasting menu available for £145 per head).

It’s one of the Scottish capital’s more famous dining rooms within one of its landmark hotels and run by star chef Dean Banks, yet feedback is perennially thin regarding this 1920s chamber, which has been through a number of incarnations in living memory. Named for King Louis XV of France‘s favourite mistress, its hand-painted walls and opulent decor are Grade A listed, although this somewhat grates with its current format, with bare tables and vividly coloured bucket chairs. The menu is that of a luxurious brasserie rather than something more haute and the tasting menu likewise at a relatively affordable £75 per person. Feedback is ‘all good’, but doesn’t give enough detail for a solid rating.

2022 Review: “In the Caledonian Hotel (Waldorf Astoria)” for the past couple of years, in a space previously occupied by the Galvin brothers, Mark Greenaway's hyped modern English and Scottish venture may be a little ill-named (it's less about sharing plates than heftier options) but receives feedback that’s notably sound, including for the “fab” puds and “well-presented” Sunday lunch.

This “small” Stockbridge basement restaurant has become one of the city’s most beloved fine- diners, with chef-patron Paul Gunning (who learnt his trade alongside MPW, amongst others) offering “wonderful and imaginative dishes” that come in “generous portions” to boot. Best of all, for cooking of this pedigree it’s all “great value”, whether you opt for the two- or three-course set lunch, or the five- or seven-course tasting menu at night. In early 2024, the Purslane team re-opened the former Aurora restaurant on Great Junction Street, in Leith, just months after it closed; now rebaptised Dùthchas, it’s another relaxed fine-dining spot that focuses on tasting menus.

An ivy-clad outpost in golfing country from Edinburgh-based Tom & Michaela Kitchin offers “excellent food and rooms – and a great breakfast”. It’s quality bistro fare, but despite its heritage not super-fancy: eg. French Onion soup, Haggis, neeps & tatties, Lemon mousse.

2022 Review: “A very classy experience with little or no fault to find”, say fans of the Roux-branded operation at this well-known Lutyens-designed golfing hotel, which looks towards the Firth of Forth, although it again attracted only a limited volume of feedback. Also acclaimed: “a lovely country-house ambience for a perfect afternoon tea, with spot-on service”. (Albert Roux, who passed away in early 2021, had been in charge of managing the cuisine here, but now it’s handled by his son, Michel Roux Jr).

Some still remember these tiny premises as the original ‘Little Chartroom’ which formerly occupied this space, and which was transformed by its predecessor’s owners into this cosy restaurant, serving a contemporary fixed menu at both lunch and dinner (in the evenings at £70 per person).