Musselburgh, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

This “absolute stalwart”, in a 17th-century watchtower by the Water of Leith, delivers “great fresh fish, beautifully cooked in a kitchen the size of a 50p piece” – “lovely staff, all very hectic, but it just works”. The flagship of a small group established more than 20 years ago, some reporters find it “slightly more relaxed than the city branch”. Top Menu Tip – “the prawn cocktail is to die for”.

2021 Review: The oldest trad boozer on the Royal Mile (est 1742) has now been reincarnated as an oyster and seafood bar – the name switching connotation from the equine to the maritime. It has won immediate high ratings for its “outstanding” crustacea.

With its imposing facade, stained glass, corniced ceilings, polished wood and brass, we maintain a listing for this busy Victorian institution (est. 1863 and nowadays run by the Metropolitan Pub Company) as much as a cultural experience as it is a culinary one. Seafood dishes and platters are the best choices here.

“The same quality of steaks that you always get with Hawksmoor, in a fabulous space in a great building” – feedback that suggests no dip in quality for this outpost of the well-known steakhouse chain (which most recently opened in Chicago). As with its London siblings, though, its middling ratings are a result of high prices and a slight sense of “hype”. Also “it’s a very big and striking room, but can easily feel a bit empty”.

“Hidden behind scaffolding in a building just off the Royal Mile” on the George IV bridge, this well-established fixture is one of the most commented-on in the city in our annual diners’ poll and “a rare oasis of quality in Edinburgh‘s tourist centre”. The formula is a straightforward one: “a stylish modern interior and a buzzy bar compliment the professional service and serious cooking; ingredients are fresh and high-quality, and the wine list is sensibly priced”. The decor is “comfortable” if “slightly clinical” and “noisy” for some tastes, but the main take-away from reports is that this remains “a must-visit for seafood lovers”.

2023 Review: “Like a Gallic hug”, chef-patron Fred Berkmiller’s “properly sourced old-school French cuisine” comes packaged with “Gallic good humour, impeccable service and quirky decoration in this wonderfully authentic restaurant”, “now with new wine bar underneath”. Sadly, its nearby sibling L’Escargot Blanc closed down last year after 18 years.

A “stylish” warehouse conversation sets the scene for some “good old-fashioned cooking” (based on “wonderfully fresh fish” that’s “good value” too) at this restaurant in the heart of the New Town. “Light years ahead of the restaurant offerings on St Andrew’s Square and in neighbouring hotels, reservations are needed as it’s mega-popular with locals” (if you can’t get in you can always head to the Leith original, or their spin-off Shore Bar and Restaurant, which also sits near Leith shore).

This “pretty little fish restaurant tucked away overlooking the expanse of the Meadows in south Edinburgh” has won widespread praise for its “deft and delicious cooking”. Chef-patron Phil White and his FOH partner Rachel Chisholm followed up by opening all-day spot Margot a few doors away in March 2024 – hailed by critic Chitra Ramaswamy of The Times as ‘the hippest café in the city’. Top Menu Tip – “the stand-out octopus”.

It’s “worth a ride on the tram” (to the terminus of the Edinburgh line, which is a short walk away) to get to this dockside outfit in a Victorian building, which was launched in 2018 by fancy seafood haunt Ondine, of the nearby capital, and Welch Fishmongers, who supply it. It’s a “very busy” place with “limited tables” in the tiled dining room and on the outdoor terrace: one diner for whom “the takeaway was the only possibility” reports that “it was worth the long queue” for the “excellent fish and chips” (as against the fancier fare in the dining room) even in the winter chill.

2023 Review: “A seafood restaurant that never fails to please, with constantly changing menus that reflect what is available seasonally”. That’s the take on this small (24 covers) family-run fish restaurant and ‘seasonal hotel’ which sits on Hawkcraig point, with views of Edinburgh and the islands of the Forth. “The owners really do pull out all the stops to give a nice dining experience. Great for that special occasion!”

On the site of the late-lamented 21212 (which closed a year earlier after the sad passing of its owner, Paul Kitching) – Stuart Ralston has launched one of Scotland’s most accomplished restaurants at this elegant and beautiful Georgian townhouse on Royal Terrace, which nowadays boasts a svelte contemporary interior. It opened in late 2023, and the centrepiece is a ten-course tasting menu for £165 per person (although you can go for the five-course, £65 lunch). The prime focus is on top-quality Scottish fish and seafood – often infused with Asian-inflected flavours – but meat and foraged ingredients also feature. Although initial feedback in our survey is limited, it’s exceptional, and we’ve felt able to rate the restaurant accordingly, encouraged by press raves which have included The Times, FT and Scotsman.

This two-year-old in the New Town from Dean Banks of the nearby Pompadour – “a chef who puts thought and local produce into the menu” – comprises a first-floor fish and seafood restaurant above a wine and cocktail bar. The “well-cooked and presented fish and seafood” would have attracted higher ratings but for one or two up-and-down experiences. Top Menu Tip – “the Arbroath smokie tart with seaweed crumpet was particularly good”.