Norfolk, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: “After nearly 30 years under the same ownership” owner James Sawrey-Cookson retired and this “well-loved Norwich institution” changed hands last year: bought by a number of business-minded regulars. Chef of three years’ standing, Iain McCarten is “well into his stride, but what makes this place so popular is the whole atmosphere (there is a real sense of belonging”). “Hopefully the new owners don’t ruin the formula” although change is certainly afoot, with a new outside terrace and adjoining brasserie section opening in autumn 2019.

“Interesting art” (from the likes of Tracey Emin, Lucian Freud and Damian Hirst) is par for the course at art dealer Ivor Braka’s foodie getaway – launched in 2011, and no stranger to ‘Top 50’ UK gastropub lists. The stately home sits on a 1,000-acre deer park, with ex-Hix alumni Stuart & Simone Tattersall overseeing a vigorous menu spanning the Gunton’s own venison plus seafood, mussels and crab caught in nearby Cromer. A few reports of “slightly complacent” service of late, but even cynics “could not fault the food and setting”.

“An unpretentious, well-run pub: long may it never change!” – “informal, laid-back but efficient staff”, “good gastropub food” and a “cosy ambience” make a meal here “a thoroughly relaxing and enjoyable experience”, with “the option for outside eating overlooking the salt marshes in better weather”.

With its “tranquil riverside setting”, this 18th-century watermill conversion – “a lovely building in a beautiful rural setting” – is “more than worth a visit any time of the year, but in the summer, dining outside in the lovely garden is a special treat”. It’s “owned and run by sisters Siobhan and Caitriona” (whose brother, Oliver Peyton is the figurehead of the family’s London catering business) and inspires a similar mix of opinions to former Peyton operations in the capital – to some “over-hyped with average service and food”, while others speak of “very good dishes”.