North Walsham Restaurant Guide

“Set in the deer-filled grounds of a stately home” and owned by Chelsea art dealer Ivor Braka, this much commented-on pub-with-rooms “shows more contemporary art on its walls than the average West End gallery” (Tracey Emin, Lucian Freud, Damien Hirst, Anthony Caro and co.). Mark Hix alumni Stuart & Simone Tattersall oversee the victuals: mostly “meat and game from local estates” (“some cooked on the open fire”), but the “broad and inventive” menu isn’t just for carnivores. “Top Menu Tip – the whole shared-chicken Sunday Roast is beautifully done and excellent value”.

This “excellent fish venue with locally sourced produce” is owned by Galton Blackiston, chef-patron of Norfolk’s grand Morston Hall, and operates both as a seaside chippie for eat-in or takeaway and as a bookable restaurant upstairs, with views of the pier and fancier dishes such as king prawn Goan curry with roti and coconut rice. Sauces and ice creams are all produced in-house.

2021 Review: “An excellent breakfast” is the top tip at Hannah Springham and Andrew Jones’s good-looking, Georgian restaurant with rooms: sibling to Norwich’s Farmyard. For other occasions, feedback on its straightforward, brasserie-style fare (fish pie, côte de boeuf, burger) is still too limited for a rating.

2021 Review: “After nearly 30 years under the same ownership” owner James Sawrey-Cookson retired and this “well-loved Norwich institution” changed hands last year: bought by a number of business-minded regulars. Chef of three years’ standing, Iain McCarten is “well into his stride, but what makes this place so popular is the whole atmosphere (there is a real sense of belonging”). “Hopefully the new owners don’t ruin the formula” although change is certainly afoot, with a new outside terrace and adjoining brasserie section opening in autumn 2019.

Chef-patron Richard Bainbridge’s “brilliant, fresh and exciting food” wows reporters at the restaurant he opened with his partner Katja almost 10 years ago. With “great staff and a wonderful ambience”, it is yet again plugged by many diners as “the best in Norwich”, but its local rival Hickman’s just had the edge in our annual diners’ poll this year, due to a small minority of critics who found the food “hyped and average” (“but we might have hit them on a bad day”).

2021 Review: “Exceptional” Indian vegetarian and vegan cooking wins high ratings for this “beautifully decorated” little restaurant on a central Norwich backstreet – a family-run business operated by “people who really care”.

“Holt in Norfolk is a jewel of a market town, and Meadowsweet is a little jewel of a restaurant with rooms” that’s won acclaim as “a superb addition to the county” since its 2021 launch by Greg Anderson and Rebecca Williams. “Service is personal and spot on” and “the house and dining room feel warm and friendly without trying to be bleeding edge”. When it comes to the “ambitious” ten-course menu for £130 per person – “every dish is thoughtful and delicious” with “chefs all working out of a tiny space and involved in introducing the courses”. “Prices seem to have risen sharply since they got their Michelin star, but we think it’s worth it!” – “worth the journey… bravo!”

“The best restaurant in Norwich (which is not intended to damn with faint praise!)”, according to fans of Roger Hickman’s “classy” and long-established dining destination in the city centre (which narrowly edged ahead of nearby Benedicts this year in our annual diners’ poll). All reports applaud the “very assured cooking” – “deeply flavoured with deft presentation and lovely combinations, without a single gimmick or fad”. Service is “willing” (“polite, charming, considerate, good-humoured!”) and “the room itself is elegant, and the napery satisfying”. One gripe – “it would be better to have their more extensive à la carte menu back in the evenings, but I guess the focus on a tasting format is a sign of the times”.

Relaunched in 2021, this “genuine gastropub” opposite Gunton station is the second local boozer to be reimagined by London art dealer Ivor Braka, after its sister the Gunton Arms, a mile up the road. It “specialises in tapas” (of “excellent variety and quality”) and do “try the upstairs saloon which serves amazing cocktails in a setting that resembles a madame’s boudoir!” (The rest of the building isn’t far behind, with a whole page of the website dedicated to the hip artists on its walls, not least Michael Landy and Diane Arbus, who are both situated in the bogs, so to speak.)

Locally born chef-patron Daniel Smith’s smartly thatched country restaurant-with-rooms “never disappoints and has the best food for some miles around”. Relying mainly on local produce, it’s “a great place to eat either the set lunch menu or the tasting menu” – and is also “very pleasant to stay in”.

“You can’t get fresher than the beautiful seafood” at this clifftop perch “in a wonderful setting overlooking the sea”, run by local lobster and crab fisherman Richard Matthews and his wife Ali. “The freshly caught crab is delicious”, and last year they added a range of vegan options to the menu.

“A fresh and vibrant menu with a fusion of local foods and inspired cooking” inspires enthusiastic (if limited) feedback on Jimmy Preston’s funky two-year-old, which started as a pop-up and went permanent in late 2021. In early 2023, The Observer’s Jay Rayner also raved over its “face-slapping flavours” and “cheeky, magpie-like romp across Asia” (including XO seasoning which includes Frazzles, Scampi Fries and Monster Munch).

“A lovely, authentic French bistro run by friendly couple with lots of favourites on the menu that’s been a great addition to Norwich” – husband and wife team Thomas Aubrit and Gemma Aubrit-Layfield are celebrating their third year in the Norwich Lanes, having launched just as covid struck at the start of 2020.

“Lovely” daily-made pasta wins star billing at this “really good Italian” from former Roux at the Landau head chef Oliver Boon and his brother Ben (Ben & Oli). The “short but varied menu” is “creative, tasty yet somehow still traditional in feeling – in the Italian way rather than a British take on Italian”.