Oare Restaurant Guide

Kate Middleton’s favourite pub, apparently (Raymond Blanc is a fan too) is this rural inn deep in the Berkshire countryside, where noise from the nearby M4 doesn’t impinge on its tranquility. Much-expanded in recent years with the addition of a cookery school, it’s nowadays run by Kate Robinson and her partner, musician Rocky Rockliff (Kate’s ex-husband, game expert Mike Robinson, is no longer involved). Though still popular with our reporters too, there’s a feeling that “the menu has been scaled back in recent times” with meals that are increasingly “good but not special”.

“I was expecting rather standard Home Counties fare, but instead I found delicious cooking and charming service all in an attractive barn-style setting”: this successful ten-year-old – a restored ‘run-down pub’ in West Berkshire countryside – boasts a “very lovely”, high-ceilinged contemporary dining extension and has become one of the most commented-on restaurants in our annual diners’ poll. Run by Alastair Storey (a top catering CEO), reporters are “delighted and frankly a bit surprised by the excellence of the experience” and – unusually for a rural venue – its “ambience and level of quiet formality make it a place in which you’d be happy to do business”. Its scores slipped a fraction this year though, on the back of some incidents of “mechanical” service (“in the old-style, fancy-restaurant way)” or the odd “ordinary” meal (“we have had better here”).

2023 Review: After months of restoration, this 17th century Georgian building near Newbury re-opened in January 2022 and now boasts a traditional pub, very attractive pitched-roof dining room in contemporary style and 30-bed coaching inn, as well as a covered garden terrace. No feedback as yet in our annual diners’ poll – reports please!