Oldstead, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“It’s very difficult to find fault” at Tommy Banks and his family’s famous pub out in the boonies of North Yorks – head chef Callum Leslie’s ten-course tasting menu is £175 per person, and even if “you may be heading for bankruptcy at this level of pricing, the cooking is astonishing”: “we even thought it good value! with some of the most interesting and tasty desserts encountered in any starred restaurant”; “it lived up to all expectations despite (well-founded) cynicism about these things!”

“Great pub food and proper Yorkshire hospitality” are the defining features of Rob & Gill Thompson’s whitewashed inn, a fixture in the village for almost four centuries. “Everything is a big cut above the average – highly recommended”.

“What an amazing experience: loved it!” – “husband and wife team” Paul & Liz Jackson “deliver quality in every department” at the 12th-century inn on the North York Moors they’ve run since 2012. Paul’s cooking is anything but traditional, featuring “Asian-inspired flavours in a tasting menu that doesn’t overwhelm”, alongside “interesting drinks pairings – not all of them are wines”, while the “small number of tables” means “service is attentive and friendly”. There are also “very pleasant rooms to stay overnight”.