Peckham, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

An “interesting and very good menu” – “prefer the à la carte to the set” – with natural wines to match draws an appreciative crowd to this open-kitchen outfit, behind Peckham overground station. Inspired by the ‘bistronomy’ of Paris or Copenhagen, it no longer generates the volume of feedback or stellar ratings of a couple of years ago.

This “exceptional local wine room”, one of the prime movers and shakers in the Peckham foodie scene, presents an “interesting list of wines” in a “fun and unpretentious atmosphere”. There’s also a short but well-received menu of modern European nibbles and larger plates. A long-heralded spin-off called ‘Little Cellars’ was due to open in Camberwell in 2023.