Peckham, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This contemporary European venue behind Peckham Rye station is still one of the most interesting restaurants in Peckham (“absurd-sounding, I know, to our parents’ generation, but that makes it very cool!)”. That said, it no longer attracts the superlative ratings of five years ago, and one school of thought finds it “overrated and expensive”. Inspired by the ’bistronomy’ movement of Paris, it serves appropriately “interesting” low-intervention and natural wines.

This “great sharing-plates restaurant with very accommodating staff” – and a “good wine selection”, its primary focus – has been a linchpin in the emergence of Peckham’s going-out scene (“I’ve never had a bad meal here: in principle I’m not a fan of small plates but here it all works”).