Pimlico, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Katie Exton the owner has created a treasure” at her “upmarket neighbourhood restaurant” in Pimlico, which she founded in 2017 (having been a sommelier at Chez Bruce, The Square and The River Café) and which flies somewhat “under the radar” in spite of its “absolutely first class” quality. It’s a “smart and unpretentious place” – if you were picking fault you’d note that it’s also “small, busy and quite clattery”; “but the good food and good vibes make for happy customers”. Chef Graham Brown’s “beautiful seasonal cuisine” is nigh on “impossible to fault” and Katie presides over her “interesting and accessible” wine list with aplomb.

“Exceptional food cooked by final year students” at Westminster Kingsway College makes the Escoffier Room one of the capital’s “great value” dining experiences, at £45 for a tasting menu. There’s a “lovely ambience to the place”, with meals “served by 2nd years, which can mean some funny moments” (“the lad serving us was on his first day!”). It’s “absolutely enjoyable”, if “somewhat chaotic” – and you need to “book early to avoid disappointment”. The college’s more relaxed brasserie and café/bar work on similar lines.

“Part of the Eccleston Yards gentrification development round Victoria coach station” (which is itself “beginning to develop a bit of a buzz”) – this useful venue provides a “great location” (complete with “a lively terrace”) and serves a “slightly unusual menu (including good steaks)”. Ratings would be higher were it not for those who find it “a little pricey”.

“Bravo!”. “At last, the team behind Medlar [David O’Connor & Joe Mercer Nairne] get the well-worthy Michelin recognition they have long deserved at this new high-end all-rounder tucked away in Eccleston Yards, on the edge of Belgravia”. “It’s not the easiest place to find in a new redevelopment close to Victoria station”, and a few diners feel that the “bare and unrefined” room “could use a touch more pizzazz given the level they are aiming for”. More positively, it’s certainly “understated and not too full of itself” and overall the “fantastic ethos” of the enterprise cuts through any lingering reservations to make this “a stunning addition to the capital”. “It’s all the things you love about Medlar, but dialled up a notch”. Service from “engaging” staff is “faultless” and the cooking “top class” – “premium ingredients, creatively combined and outstandingly prepared all make Cornus a special find”. “The wine list is fascinating and the head of wine, Melania, has some really superb recommendations”. “It’s not cheap, but nor should it be, there are other options in town for that”. Top Tip – “the set lunch and lunchtime corkage of £20 per bottle make this a great value option”.