Polegate, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

There’s no doubting the “great” setting of this former religious hostel, which lies at the foot of the Sussex Downs on the banks of the Cuckmere River; having been acquired by hospitality whizz Olga Polizzi in 2021, it’s now an “upmarket country hotel” replete with Bloomsbury set artworks and (in the dining room) a gorgeous Elizabethan-esque floor. With River Café alum Tim Kensett having moved on to his Scottish wild-dining concept Inverlonan Dining, head chef Vincenzo Petrocco is currently at the helm; the “food is mainstream Anglo-French with good fish and meat options” and while “not inexpensive” (“you can eat in the best London restaurants at their prices”) and described by sceptics as “good but fairly ordinary”, more positive reporters believe the “quality cooking and service justify the bill”.

“Still the only ‘fine-dining’ restaurant in Eastbourne”, the “lovely” and “smart” dining room of iconic seafront establishment the Grand Hotel is “five-star all the way”, say fans; on the service front, “the mostly long-serving team continue to deliver”, while chef Alex Burtenshaw, who joined the line-up in 2023, turns out modern European cooking that is “now never less than acceptable, and sometimes excellent”. That’s the upbeat view anyway. But a minority of diners find the whole performance “very, very disappointing”, and this view was more to the fore this year: they say “it’s very expensive”, that “the only pluspoint is the very large dining room”, and that “this place could only ever survive in Eastbourne”. Top Tip – for a cheaper option, the hotel’s other restaurant (the Garden Grill) is said to do “an excellent Sunday lunch” – and looks far swankier than one might expect from it being the hotel’s more casual option.

2022 Review: They “recently extended the outdoor space and garden” at this imposing wattle-and-daub Elizabethan inn, built for the Keeper of the Privy Purse to Elizabeth I, no less. Together with a “new menu” of snacks and heartier grub it now makes a “great eating place” by all accounts.

This fish-specialist in a townhouse, from former Le Caprice chef Nick Hales, celebrates its 20th anniversary this year, and although it is rated on limited feedback, such as we have remains very good. The changing menu is governed by the catch from day boats launched from the beach at Hastings.

This “fantastic” renovated Victorian hotel opposite the station was re-launched six years ago and is now “excellent in every way”, with “exceptional” cooking – “as seasonal as food gets, simple but so much flavour” – while “the service is attentive without being intrusive”.

“In a delightful village”, this “scenic” gastroboozer-with-rooms continues to please, two years after longtime owners the Pullan family handed the keys to the Young’s group; the “best atmosphere is in the bar” (as opposed to the annexe), though the “great garden” remains the standout here, offering lovely views of the Ouse countryside.

This “tiny restaurant with an open kitchen” showcases some “really inventive, original and interesting cooking” from former Ledbury and Dairy chef Richard Falk. Top Tip – “defo worth taking advantage of lunches being the same quality as dinners and costing £32 for 3 courses instead of £57”.