Redruth, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: This “hidden gem just outside Truro” from husband-and-wife team Ben & Sam Harmer features “impressive” cooking, “exceptional service” and a “splendid outdoor eating area” for warmer weather. Ben’s classical training took in the kitchens of The Savoy and Le Gavroche – hence “the soufflé is impressive”.

2022 Review: “Interesting food in an intimate dining room” makes Nigel Tabb’s former pub a “favourite local fine-dining venue”, making “great use of local Cornish ingredients”. It also helps that there’s a “small but well-constructed wine list which offers exceptional value”. It’s “a little difficult to find, away from the centre of Truro, but worth the effort”.

2023 Review: This “glorious spot” by the sea, close to the SW coastal path and with a front-conservatory to take advantage of sea views, was taken over by high-profile chef Michael Caines of Lympstone Manor in 2020. Quell hopes of any culinary fireworks, though – reports here didn’t hit the heights this year, with the experience too often “let down by chaotic service and pedestrian food”.

Stunningly located on the seafront in St Mawes, this staple of design and travel magazines is the flagship of the Polizzi Collection, run by interiors guru Olga Polizzi and her ‘Hotel Inspector’ daughter Alex (who also oversee Hotel Endsleigh near Tavistock and, most recently, The Star in Alfriston, East Sussex). The food, which again elicited solid marks this year, can be taken in the chic dining room or more casual Dog’s Head bar.

Adam Handling scores more bouquets than brickbats for this luxurious venue overlooking Carbis Bay: part of a new luxury resort which hit the papers in 2021 when it hosted the G7 summit a few months before his dining room opened here. Fans say the ambitious cuisine is “innovative, if expensive” and “excellently sourced, fresh local and seasonal”. Not everyone is wild about the interior however (“while it has an excellent view, it can seem rather echoey due to the large expanse of glass and hard surfaces”) and one or two reporters also query value here (“a very large bill for an underwhelming meal and strange decor”). Still, no-one rates the cooking as less than good, and many say it’s exceptional.

“The ‘one to beat’ in the surrounding area, despite increasing competition” – this harbourside restaurant with rooms is “a place for a quite special dinner, where the imaginative menus and ingredients continue to reflect Jude Kereama‘s heritage” (a mixture of New Zealand and Asian backgrounds). “The tasting menus remain very good value at a time when such menus are becoming all but prohibitively priced elsewhere”.

“Amazing ramen” is just one highlight of the “lovely menu” at chef Jude Kereama’s second venue, sister to nearby Kota. There’s plenty of seafood, along with dishes inspired by Jude’s New Zealand and Asian heritage. “Fab views over the harbour just across the road” are another reason to visit.

A “great view of the beach” (particularly from the deck) and across the bay to Godrevy Lighthouse in the distance has long been the major draw to this seaside café; while the food isn’t quite what it once was (breakfast is take-away only these days), it does its job, with dishes like crab linguine and fish ‘n’ chips playing up the local catch. PS – if you’re making a day of it, they also rent out 36 brightly coloured beachside ‘pods’ or shacks, allowing you to store your beach kit and refuel at this restaurant without the hassle of carting your valuables with you.

“St Ives has so many places to eat, but this is a favourite” – “right in the middle of the seafront, and because it’s on the first floor you have a great view of the harbour and beach”. “The menu has plenty of fish options, but the meat-eater is also catered for”, while “the food quality is good, even if the options are not that innovative”.

2023 Review: “Simply all that you could desire of a gastropub” – this attractive twelfth-century inn welcomes everyone from walkers from the nearby SW Coast Path near St Michael’s Mount to dog walkers with its enjoyable bistro-style food – “good Sunday lunch” in particular.

Set within a “beautiful sculpture park” outside Penzance hosting works by art-world stars James Turrell and Richard Long amongst others, this pleasant eight-year-old restaurant offers an “excellent selection of vegetarian dishes” (but not just) and classic cream teas. Stop in for the “lovely brunch and then walk it off” in the grounds – or else grab a takeaway from their hut, and picnic on the hill with views of St Michael’s Mount.

2022 Review: A “fabulous location with stunning views of the Fal Estuary” remains the main draw to this smart quayside brasserie, though its “good, varied menu” is “well presented and precisely cooked” too. Getting a window seat is something of a challenge – as is getting a spot for breakfast and brunch, so think of booking ahead.

“Expert cooking, an interesting menu with a very strong emphasis on provenance and sustainability, all backed by friendly and well-informed service” win a thumbs-up for Hylton & Petronella Espey’s “small and tucked-away” venue on Custom House Quay, which in two short years has become one of the most accoladed venues in Cornwall. The main event in the evening is the ‘Journey’ menu at £80 per person: ‘a story told over seven courses’.

“A real find” – this “outstanding small eats” spot has an open kitchen which sources its fish, seafood, beef, charcuterie, salad leaves, potatoes, pinot noir, rosé, beer, cider, gin, vodka, rum, soft drinks and more from Cornwall – “keep up the good work”, say fans, who apparently include Rick Stein!

Costing £3 million and aiming to provide a ‘world class experience’, the new flagship destination at this landmark five-star hotel – a gigantic Victorian pile overlooking Fistral beach – opened in May 2023, too late for any feedback in our annual diners’ poll. The Headland offers tremendous sea views, and the new menu aims to showcase the best of Cornish fish and farm produce (RenMor means ’restaurant by the sea’ in Cornish). Maybe scope it out with a visit to one of the adjoining lounges for sarnies and cakes first – “afternoon tea looking out to sea couldn’t be more perfect”.