Rochdale, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

A true “gem” – this “recently reopened Manchester institution” dates back to 1868, when it was founded by Sam Studd (whose brother Tom had opened nearby Tom’s Chop House a year before), and later became L.S. Lowry’s favourite watering hole. It serves a menu of “traditional British staples that are actually quite hard to find done well, as they are here”. Top Menu Tip – “the corned beef hash is a must-try-before-you-die dish”.

Chef-patron Eric Paxman trained under Marco Pierre White in London and Bill Granger in Australia, and has cooked for luminaries including Arnold Schwarzenegger, who vowed ‘I’ll be back’ – a sentiment shared by numerous guests at the venture he opened in his hometown 14 years ago. “Lunch and early-bird evening specials are an exceptional bargain”.