Rutland, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

The “quintessential country house” – Tim & Steffa Hart’s fine property was owned by the Hoare banking family prior to its conversion into a hotel; and long predates the 1970s reservoir over which it nowadays provides “stunning views”. That it’s “pleasantly old-fashioned” (or, if you prefer, rather old-school) is intrinsic to its charm. The “hushed tones in the dining room might not suit everybody”, but can provide “a perfect setting in which to enjoy a significant occasion, with magnificent service and a glorious setting”. Chef Aaron Paterson has overseen the kitchen for over thirty years now: and his classical cuisine remains “superb” (if “very expensive”). And it’s matched with a “varied and well-chosen wine list, backed up by the excellent Dominique Baduel (Sommelier) who is always happy to recommend and advise”. Stay the night and there are “excellent English breakfasts cooked to order”. Top Menu Tip – “highlights this year included marinated scallops with a fennel and cucumber essence; gazpacho with celery granita; and slow-cooked octopus with squid ink pasta, chorizo, lemongrass and ginger”.