Saffron Walden, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: Jamie Oliver’s parents Trevor & Sally retired from this sixteenth-century village gastropub after 44 years in November 2020, so it has recently changed hands: it’s now a part of the 12-strong Chestnut group of pubs. The Olivers always ran the Cricketers well, but regulars say “(even in the tepee) the food is possibly up a notch”.

2021 Review: “In the heart of Walthamstow Village”, this “great neighbourhood spot” – a Spar supermarket with kitchen attached – wins praise for its “quality” cooking (“the 2019 Harden’s description of pub-type grub underplays its standard and originality”). “Very relaxed and welcoming for young children”, the venture’s best-known innovation is bacon jam, which you can buy by the jar in various flavours. Other branches have opened in Hackney and, most recently, Hammersmith (somewhat better-served areas, so these respective branches are somewhat less of a local lifeline).

In a “lovely setting” in the village made famous by the poet of its name, this pub was taken over after our survey by Pascky Benedetto and his wife Laura, who moved in from the nearby Plough at Coton with a new offer including £6 house negronis and a signature carbonara with guanciale – although the menu is by no means all-Italian. We have removed the rating for this year – but reports please!

This Grade II-listed city-centre staple (once a coaching inn welcoming travellers on the road to the Big Smoke) has long been a magnet for locals owing to “always reliable” and sometimes “very good” bistro dishes and “excellent service” to boot; visit in summer months to profit from the lovely walled garden.

“Incredibly inventive vegetarian cooking and lovely staff!” continue to inspire nothing but high praise from the very dedicated fan club of Alex Rushmer’s small, ethically driven and sustainably sourced venue. “It really does not get any better than this place. Who cares that it’s meat-free... it’s just fabulous, tasty food”.

2021 Review: This “meaty joint” occupies an attractive converted mill, complete with working water wheel. It “continues to please students and locals in its airy space overlooking river and millpond (I saw a kingfisher!)”.

A “beautiful setting” in the University Arms hotel, which relaunched alongside this tavern in 2018 after an £80 million transformation, adds considerably to the charms of a visit to this brasserie overlooking Parker’s Piece green. Local chef Tristan Welch, who honed his talents alongside a triptych of star chefs – Roux Jr, Ramsay and Rhodes – is a keen promoter of East Anglian produce, which informs the menu; the latter is usually deemed sound.

2023 Review: “Focused on simple dishes, with excellent ingredients, all elevated by sharp cooking” – the year-old grill at this new Graduate Hotel (named for the previous hotel on this site) wins positive feedback in our annual diners’ poll (but too limited for a rating).

2021 Review: Look out for the bright yellow Citroën van, if you want to try veteran restaurateur Regis Crépy’s latest venture, selling Alsatian pizza-type Flammekueche in a Cambridge food court. For a tasty, cheap ’n’ cheerful snack that’s a little out of the ordinary, these “light”, “fresh-tasting” and “reasonably priced” wafers of bread dough complete with toppings are just the job.

“A fantastic selection of beers (and gins)” makes the popular former home of E. M. Forster “a very useful and welcome gastro-choice in central Cambridge, where other options are not great”. The food is “reliable” and “decently done but nothing earth-shattering”. Top Tip – “stay downstairs: the upstairs dining room can have a chilly ambience”.

“Our go-to for breakfast on a Saturday in Cambridge” – with its “beautiful art deco-ish dining room”, this branch of the glossy national chain has a cohort of fans who reckon it’s “always a pleasure” to visit. Worth considering, in this still underserved university city.

“Everything that a lavish foodie experience should be – just wonderful”. Daniel Clifford’s Victorian villa remains one of the most accoladed restaurants in the country, and under chef Mark Abbott continues to plough a very steady course thanks to his “extraordinarily accomplished and delicious cooking”. It helps that it’s a pretty house in a gorgeous location: set on lush Midsummer Common, next to the Cam and with the backdrop of the university’s many boathouses on the opposite bank. There’s only one fly in the ointment here, and it’s the fact that at £270 per person for the evening (15-course) tasting menu, the price tag is a very large one and even some who say the food is “very good” can still find it “overpriced”. But for most, it’s “unfaultable”, “with a lot of fantasy and love for detail and really worth the journey”.

Despite its out-of-the-way location on Mill Road, Holly & Dan Fancett’s “lovely, local French-style brasserie” is one of the most commented-on destinations in the city in our annual diners’ poll. Why? Especially in this still patchily served varsity town, it’s “fairly priced”, serves “very good food”, has an “intimate” atmosphere and provides “very personal attention to customers”.

“Fresh clean flavours, beautifully prepared and presented” are the distinguishing feature of the modern British menu at this two-year-old project in the former premises of long-serving Italian restaurant Don Pasquale. Founders Bill Brogan and his partner Jinzhao Li last year re-launched the basement wine bar as a pan-Asian restaurant.