Soho, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“If your date is going badly here, it’s not destined to be” at this “gorgeous”, candle-lit Soho townhouse – one of the capital’s prime destinations “for a tête-a-tête lunch or smoochy dinner”. “All bare wood, nooks, and snugs”, it is “very tightly packed” and down-to-earth and for its legions of fans captures “just what I want from a restaurant. OK, the setting could be more comfy, but it has a superb vibe”, “amenable” and “charming” service, and “British seasonal food with a twist” that’s not aiming for fireworks but which is “always reliable”. Crucially, all this is backed up by “a short wine selection that’s second to none and at absolutely outstanding prices”. Andrew Edmunds himself unexpectedly passed away in September 2022, but the business (now run by his family) “continues to honour his legacy”: “I’ve been coming here since the 90’s and I’m so glad the team have carried on without Andrew – the place goes from strength to strength”.

The ‘Press for Champagne’ button has become an Instagram classic – made famous by the original Soho branch of Leonid Shutov’s decadent diners, which provide luxurious treats like caviar and beef Wellington all served in a sumptuous environment, whose dark wood and polished surfaces evoke the deco glam of a trip on the Orient Express. “A fun place for a celebration” or romance, they are also notably “overpriced” – a factor harder to overlook in the era of straitened post-Covid expense accounts, when splashy business dining (for which they are a favourite) has been reined in. Perhaps that’s why the renamed ‘Bob Bob Cité’ – a “nightclub-like space” occupying a floor of the City’s Cheesegrater – has failed to make waves, and generates very few (albeit positive) reports. In August 2023, the group (celebrating its fifteenth year) started a new, 56-seat spin-off, a few doors down from the original, called ‘Bébé Bob’: the offering here will shoehorn champagne and caviar into a more dressed-down offering, alongside rotisserie chicken as the main event.

“If you can’t make it to Cartmel to visit L’Enclume, enjoy Simon Rogan’s innovative cuisine here in London in a strange combination of chef’s table and culinary laboratory: a unique gastronomic and social experience in all respects!”. From May 2023, the star chef’s Soho outpost grew (a little) in size to seat 12 guests (up from the original 8) together with a complete refurb. But fans say “they didn’t need to bother with the decor when the food (from executive head chef Oli Marlow and head chef Charlie Tayler) is this spectacular”; and they hail it as “the top spot in the capital for those who want to focus on what’s on the plate” (for which the ingredients are primarily sourced from ‘Our Farm’ – Simon’s Lake District property). Compared with the culinary pyrotechnics and inventiveness, the “wine list is quite simple by comparison”.

2021 Review: “Utterly magic shakshuka served with chunks of roasted sourdough…”, “stand-out salt beef bagels…”, “incredible coffee with a selection of babka sweet breads (in different flavours!)…”, “ZFC – ‘za’atar fried chicken’ – to die for!…” – these “bustling” Israeli delis in Stoke Newington and Soho’s Kingly Court create queues (especially at brunch) with their “quite exceptional and startlingly fresh Middle-Eastern-cum-north-American food. They also make a worthwhile destination at dinner, when the pace is more sedate, the natural wines are flowing and you can actually book a table”. “Casual and relaxed”, they look “gorgeous” too.

“The warm and welcoming ambience is hard to beat” at this all-day brasserie, from the Soho House group – part of a hotel, which enjoys a “brilliant central location”. The food? “Uncomplicated, nothing special, but very acceptable” (especially for brunch), if “expensive for what you get”. But it’s the “lovely” atmosphere that carries the day here.

“One of the legends of the London food scene” – the Hart Bros’ ‘Grande Dame of Dean Street’ is some reporters’ “all-time favourite in the capital – especially now the dining room has been enlarged and transformed to feel much comfier”. (At the end of 2022, the Harts reclaimed the space in this “beautiful, historic building” that had been given over to Barrafina for a few years, to return QV back to its former capacity). “Now with the refit, the environment has caught up with Jeremy Lee’s dishes” – “fine British fare using seasonal ingredients” that’s “top cuisine, without feeling too ‘restauranty’” – all delivered in a “convivial atmosphere which takes us back to classic Soho days”. “Superb all round” and “low-key in a good way, so ideal for business”. Top Menu Tip – “that eel sandwich is still a winner”.

This “cool spot” with a “tight menu that changes daily” is “a Soho go-to, even if you get turned away at the door because it’s too damned successful!” Now in its second decade, it was way ahead of the curve with its modern Mediterranean/North African menu and biodynamic wine list (“tried orange and natural wines here before they became popular categories elsewhere”).

“A quiet oasis on the fringe of messy Soho” – this hotel comes complete with a cute and rather unexpected courtyard and makes a “great setting” for a “comfortable and reasonably priced afternoon tea”. The food at other times is “comforting but not exciting”, although the set menu offers “good value for pre-theatre dining”.

This Soho outpost from the Sussex-based Gladwin Brothers was launched in 2019 in the stylish quarters vacated by Arbutus (long RIP). As at the Gladwins’ five other venues across London, feedback was somewhat limited and a little up-and-down this year. A particular plus is the “valiant focus on locally sourced produce” and a “friendly” approach. Negatives include meals that can be “pleasant but unmemorable” and the odd incident of “haphazard” service.

“The impressive room is good as it looks in the photos” and “the bar is one of the most beautiful in central London” at Jason Atherton’s sparkling venue: a converted banking hall that’s part of a glam (Ian Shrager-designed) hotel, north of Oxford Street. With its “big and well-spaced tables” it’s “sure to wow your customers”, catch the attention of your date or set the scene for a “lovely special occasion”. Historically, other aspects of the performance have played second fiddle to the surroundings here, but this year it won all-round praise for its “excellent” luxury brasserie cuisine and “knowledgeable” service too.

“The lovely Soho institution above this legendary pub” (where de Gaulle is said to have composed some of his speeches during WWII) is currently “in the very safe hands of Neil Borthwick” (Angela Hartnett’s hubbie). There’s “wizardry afoot” here but “no faff or fancy” – by “doing simple but really excellent things to top produce but not doing much to it” he creates “a tight menu of absolute bangers”, with “big flavours singing out” (“a plate of greens can be as full of oomph as a tartare or a chop”). “Staff are tremendous” and for many reporters this is “a go-to destination in the West End”.

Snug Soho bar, whose superior wine list belies its founding by two Master Sommeliers: Gearoid Devaney and Xavier Rousset. To help soak up the vino: well-rated small plates, cheese and charcuterie. Top Tip – head here in the wee hours: it’s open till 3am later in the week.

“This intimate little counter-dining venue” in an ancient pub that nowadays finds itself part of Chinatown “shows levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”. James Goodyear has taken over from Luke Selby (the latter departing to be head chef at Le Manoir), but all reports swoon over “a truly special experience” and a multi-course tasting menu that’s “absolutely exceptional”. “Love the counter-top layout of the restaurant and the chefs are very happy to talk, explaining in detail how things are made (important to me because I am a very keen cook!)”. “It has a buzzy vibe and is a bit of a squeeze (in both space and time), making it a very different formula than nearby Aulis. Having said that, the cooking is consistently delightful, imaginative and bold. The menu feels well thought-through, building and balancing as it progresses”. “File it under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”: from mid-2023 they are opening on Monday nights and also incorporating their wine bar, The Mulwray, and the pub, The Blue Posts, into the overall offering at Evelyn’s Table.

Jason Atherton’s elegant, “professional” wine bar and bistro is decked out in an understated, classic style that’s a little more retro than at his main gaff (Pollen Street), which is across the street. Here, chef Frankie van Loo offers less ‘foodie’ “bistro-style” dishes raised to a “superb” standard. The bar area is tiny, but “you can always have a pre-dinner drink at its big brother opposite, which has a great cocktail bar”. Top Tip – visit in summer, when you can eat outside on the pedestrianised street.

“Replacement for the beloved Gay Hussar” – Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew’s 2021 resurrection of this famous Soho site has pulled off the amazingly difficult task of being almost as popular as their Bloomsbury original. “Everything about this establishment is wonderful, but the wine list elevates it to the exceptional” – “the care that goes into it is astonishing” (“I could happily spend the rest of my life working through it!”). The hearty food is “always enjoyable” too and “expertly served” by particularly “knowledgeable” and “friendly staff” in “the delightful atmosphere of this gorgeous old restaurant, which has been brought back to life by the Noble Rot team”. Top Top – “amazing value set lunch”.

Dating from 1867, this fine Soho landmark should be famous, but has slipped off the restaurant map in recent years: initially due to its indifferent standards; and then due to Soho House’s purchase of the building, and its closure to non-members since 2019. In July 2023, the club once again threw open its doors to the hoi polloi, with a food operation now run by the team behind the Stoke Newington pub The Clarence Tavern. Fingers crossed, this promising partnership helps it recoup some of its old mojo, rather than descending once again into the Theatreland tourist trap mode that’s dogged it since PizzaExpress founder, the late Peter Boizot, sold it on in 2002.

A “reliable Soho favourite”, where results from its blackboard menu are “always solidly good and can be excellent” – the same can be said of its handwritten ‘little black book’ of wines. “Small, relaxed and friendly”, it “can become pretty noisy, but that’s part of the fun”.

2021 Review: A “superb and quirky afternoon tea” is to be had in the atrium of this boutique hotel north of Oxford Street, with is themed around Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter (the ‘drink me’ potion here, is an invitation to indulge in Champagne!): “good value for a huge amount of attention to detail – love it!”

The “interesting, unusual” and “occasionally really great” vegan cuisine at this “romantic and candle-lit restaurant close to Oxford Circus” has won enough fans to crowdfund its transformation from pop-up to permanent status at the same address. “The best test is that it continues to attract non-vegetarians because the food is so good”. Former Fat Duck and Chiltern Firehouse chef Rishim Sachdeva was a committed meat-eater before challenging himself to create knock-out veggie dishes (with some cheese permitted).

2021 Review: “Outstanding cooking, with first-class service” consistently hits the bullseye at this relatively unsung venue, tucked away at the back of a luxury Mayfair hotel. There’s a “thoughtful” approach to the meal, with “chefs coming out to tell you about dishes” – while some diners are “invited into the kitchen to meet Alyn”. It’s a “very comfortable” set-up and “the space between tables is incredible by modern restaurant standards, which creates the intimacy that a romantic meal requires”. And, especially at lunch, the elegant room’s lack of windows and natural light adds to the cocooning nature of the experience.