Soho, Spanish Restaurant Guide

This quintet of tapas bars from the well-known Iberian food importer attracts most attention for its locations – in particular its “lively and popular” original bar at the entrance to Borough Market; and most recent addition: a “lovely riverside spot overlooking the Thames at Richmond”. Despite its renown – and some praise for its “small plates but big flavours” – ratings are held down by prices many reporters consider “high” for what’s widely seen as “pretty standard tapas fare”.

“Counter seats are the best” at the Hart Bros’ “magical slice of Spain” – a “joyful” and thriving homage to Barcelona’s famous Cal Pep, which since its 2007 launch has steadily appeared near the top of our annual diners’ poll as one of London’s most popular restaurant groups. Its branches have multiplied, but – to a miraculous extent – the formula has stayed the same. “At the bar, it’s fun to watch the talented staff who were clearly enjoying their jobs, meticulously preparing the outstanding dishes”: “brilliant small plates, with plenty of choice” and “packed with authentic flavours” (“particularly strong on fish and seafood”); plus “an excellent range of sherries” and wines. But, while it’s maintained “impressive consistency over many years”, it can feel “like a bar experience at restaurant prices” nowadays, and its ratings drifted south of their usual peaks this year. There’s also the odd tale of caution in reports: “I’ve been almost every year since it opened. It’s still great fun and pretty good, but the last three visits have fallen below the super-high quality of the past”. Top Menu Tips – “love the Croquetes; the Cos salad with anchovy and crispy pancetta; and perfectly unctuous Tortilla”.

“The best Spain has to offer in the UK” – Nieves Barragan’s “genius” dishes are “packed with so much flavour” at her and José Etura’s incredibly “buzzy and popular” destination, off Regent Street. “The tapas counter is one of London’s top places to eat (the only problem is getting a seat) to enjoy stunningly fresh fare, straight from the chef”. “Service is fantastic and the buzz in the room is palpable”: this is one of the vanishingly small number of restaurants ever to have been awarded a 5,5,5. Note: whereas the counter, bar, and revamped outdoor terrace are saved for walk-ins, you can book upstairs for El Asador dining room and also for parties up to 10 at the large ‘La Mesa’ table on the ground floor. Top Menu Tips – lots of dishes come highly recommended in reports: “the immaculate Suckling Pig always stands out”; “The Cuttlefish Pappardelle & Manchego Pesto is wonderful”; “Monkfish tempura is exceptional”; and the “Goat’s Cheese Ice Cream & Liquorice Sauce” also rates mention.

“A joy!” – paella cooked over a wood fire in the Valencian style, “so drier than some you may have had before” – is the headline attraction at this London outpost from superstar Spanish chef Quique Dacosta. But “sublime starters – beef cheeks, Atlantic squid and pork jowl” also really hit the spot on an “unexpected” menu. The location just off Oxford Street does little to attract custom, although it is a “good place to host in the private dining room”.

“Living up to the naturally high expectations”; this prime site within the Café Royal, off Piccadilly Circus, wins praise – albeit on limited feedback this year – for the “meticulous patisserie” you would hope for from Albert Adrià (who, back in the day, was pastry chef at his brother Ferran’s world-famous destination restaurant: El Bulli, long RIP).

“Scrumptious food, Soho ambience: a winner!” – Cameron Emirali and Luke Wilson’s “intimate” fixture has won renown above its size and inspires feedback from diners living all over London. The food from the open kitchen “is amazing and interesting” and “it’s a place to come back to” (“I’ve eaten at 10 Greek 20+ times, I’ve never had one bad mouthful of food”). Top Tip – ask for their ‘Little Black Book’ of ‘rarer wine gems’.

“Heavenly seafood” adds to the appeal of this “cosy restaurant” in Soho serving “lovely tapas” (with an emphasis on fish). It’s the third venue specialising in Scottish seafood presented Spanish-style (after Bar Esteban in Crouch End and Escosesa in Stoke Newington) from Glasgow-born Stephen Lironi, who switched careers after starting out as a musician in Scottish post-punk band Altered Images, alongside his wife Clare Grogan.

With ‘croquetas at its core’, this small, December 2022 newcomer, south of Carnaby Street, promises to bring ‘Spanish bar culture with regional sensibilities to Soho’. Run by Brindisa, it’s a non-branded attempt at a funkier outlet for their Hispanic produce and wines. No survey feedback as yet, but in a March 2023 review, The Independent’s Lucy Thackray hailed a “cosy, convivial Spanish hangout” that’s “a potentially chemistry-crackling date place” – “the spelling may be gimmicky but the food is not”.

“Uniquely fabulous” is how diners describe Brat-founder Tomos Parry’s Soho yearling: “an open-grill-dominated casual eatery” near the foot of Carnaby Street that its biggest fans hail as “an instant classic that’s perhaps the opening of the year”. The “refreshingly original menu – spider crab omelette and mutton chops anybody?” – “lives up to the hype”; there’s an “especially good wine list”; and the overall vibe is “trendy but not overly so” (“huge fun, it feels like being at a great party”). Drawbacks? “Upstairs can be a bit noisy when it gets busy” and the “low-key and charming” service can sometimes be “curiously erratic”. And it’s really “not cheap” or, if you prefer, “so expensive!” (but very arguably “that reflects the quality and creativity of the dishes”). Top Menu Tip – mixed views on the signature Anglesey lobster: “Giles Coren made it sound amazing!” but critics say “what apparently serves up to five is lovely, but we found it barely enough for two!”