South Hampstead, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This “underrated” fixture near Swiss Cottage has long been a “the best place to eat before a show at the Hampstead Theatre”, and is perhaps greater than the sum of its parts. It has won a big fan club over the years, who say it’s also “good enough to return to away from a show for other celebrations” – “the fish always makes people happy and the set menu is a good deal: what’s not to like?”. Simon Bradley (who runs it with his wife Jacinta) has been cooking here for 33 years and even those who feel the food is “not spectacular” – and who keep the ratings in check – still acknowledge that it’s “so much better than any of the alternatives locally”.

Conventional fare delivered to a good standard is the hallmark of this venue, which has served St John’s Wood for more than 20 years. “Waiting staff are attentive and helpful”, there’s “a lovely terrace” and the easygoing food is consistently well rated.